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In the instruction linked to by Inspector on page 23 does your mircometer have the horizontal lines as in fig B and C if so you can read down to 0.001

Thank you. Even though I may know how to do things I also welcome suggestions as I may not know. I did make a plate which was the correct thickness for the length what was needed and lust filed off the access unscrewed them and a quick run around the thread to tidy it up I did six at a time so...

Six Hornstays made and drilled then the horns drilled and tapped followed by shortening the fixing screws as I only had some which were too long these are 5BA bolts The centre support rod was cut and drilled either end then tapped 6BA so I took the opportunity to do a dry fit. Hopefully...

On a cold morning I can see my glasses fogging but that is quite a way off yet. I have brought all the castings for this build and without all the metal needed it is already heavy and on top of that you have the water in the boiler when you start the days running. I was thinking of going to the...

Have you thought of case hardening I have just brought some powder to do some of the parts on my loco build

It is certainly an 0-6-0 loco of the Caledonian Railway called Rob Roy in 3 1/2" gauge and also is a live steam model. The large cut outs are where the cylinder block sits going through to the steam chest on the inside. I am getting close to assembling the chassis before moving onto the wheels...

Normally you will find me playing with wood either turning it or making wooden models with it. Well last year I had a major garden renovation which included a new workshop and the addition of some new toys namely a Warco 250 lathe and a WM18 mill with DRO. So as you can see I am totally new to...

Just turn it at the speed the lathe is comfortable it may take a little longer and the more you turn it the less dancing around it would do allowing you to speed up a little

Where you have the tear out is the wood a little soft as if the spalting has gone to far and also how much tear out are you getting is it local to one area or much worse. If not too much then soak it with thinned down sealer it may need doing more than once. Looking at the video again it seems...

Like Paul I have turned with a shallow tenon but larger and then used that as a small raiser to the piece lifting it off of the surface it is placed this also gives the appearance of being taller than it actually is. As long as the tenon is the correct size for the jaws very little or even no...

Never needed anything like it but I know from others it takes a thread well. You would have thought that with the length of time I have been turning I would have tried it but alas no not yet. I do have some blackwood which has sat in my store for ages but still have not got around to turning it

What is box like to turn so can't visualize what blackwood is like to turn :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Another vote for London Plain

It should just screw on. If there is a thread protector on the spindle then that will need to be removed first. On the other hand if the face-plate is one that needs to be fitted with a chuck do you have the chuck. Do you have any photos which will show what you have and the machine

I am of the mind of "If you have to ask then there is doubt in your mind in the first place so don't turn it until comfortable". We all like to make unusual pieces but we also need to do so safely. Please think that when answering these posts that the Originator may be a total novice that is...

Burn it I know it is not what many would recommend but with some of those splits super glue is no suitable. The other thing is that it will be a end grain bowl and I am sure it will split even more the more you turn it. As a new turner it would be best to stick to already seasoned wood with no...

+ 1 for modifying the cutting angle on a drill bit for certain materials and thicknesses. I am lucky in that I have at least two sets of drill bits in either metric or imperial one set of each modified for these occasions

Not sure which saw you have but Steve Summers does some work to one by adding a coolant system HERE you will need to look for a second part

Looks a little like a Myford M type

I can't remember the last time my lathe needed adjusting 2 or three drops of oil before a turning session. I have adjusted it twice since I have had it and that was 2009. So it should not need adjusting as much as you stated unless there is a major problem