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I haven't used American white oak for some years but when I did it was usually dried to 7-10% mc max and I had problems with swelling even in kitchen doors where the solid panel pushed out the stiles. I made a pair of external doors and stored the rough sawn timber outside for as long as I could...

My first reaction was to not glue it as on large tables and benches etc, but as it is fairly small and the top rails will presumably be glued then I would glue the bottom rail as well. You wouldn't want it working loose and pulling the top rail out. IMHO Cheers Malcolm

What about Mylands no 8 semi-gloss lacquer? I've used it quite a lot in the past. You can put 3 coats on in a day and get a nice satin finish. http://www.mylands.co.uk/brush.html Cheers Malcolm

How to entertain yourself on a winter's evening - start a new thread about the price of oak and stand well back! Steve, don't listen to the others, :wink: your words on pricing sound very familar and sensible to me Dan Tovey wrote: Dan, it depends what you're making. If it's a piece of...

I've been puzzling over this since I changed the material for my current job from kilned oak to air-dried as mentioned in a previous thread (garage doors). I normally buy kilned oak as square edged which is fairly easy to convert to the sizes required. Air-dried comes in large waney edged...

Thanks a lot for your learned response Sgian. I now feel much more confident of my approach to this job. Cheers Malcolm

Thanks for the replies. I'm starting to be swayed by the air-dried argument if I can get it WELL air-dried. I can't find anyone in my area stocking moulded boards but I'm a bit of a control freak so I don't mind doing them myself :) Any further observations gratefully received. Cheers Malcolm

Hi Murray I have a three-speed spindle but run my wobble-saw (7" or 8") at the slowest speed (4000revs). Malcolm

Sorry, flb means framed, ledged and braced Malcolm

I've just received the order to make 4 pairs of garage flb doors in oak and I shall be ordering the oak on Monday morning. Each leaf is approx 2.4m x 1.2m and I am going to use 5"x2" for the door stiles and top rails and 5"x1" for the tgv boards. The oak is to be left completely untreated and...

Hi Bespoke, Just looked at your website. As a humble joiner I'm very impressed with your work and the fact that you do everything yourself from design to installation. And your web design ain't bad either. Congrats Malcolm

Hi Howard It's a good idea. When my joinery workshop was being built some years ago it was suggested to me by a friend just in time that I could have all the trunking set in the floor rather than hanging from the ceiling and getting in the way, and it's been a great success. It includes a box I...

It sounds like you'd prefer ash. I haven't used ash for stairs but Richard Burbidge make newels and handrails etc in ash so others must use it. Look at http://richardburbidge.co.uk The prices sound expensive but you should be able to get a discount when ordering through Jewson or other...

Hi Ed I make stairs now and again and to answer your questions Matter of choice - plaster afterwards means not having to use a moulding to fill any gap between string and the wall - plaster before saves spoiling the wood of a nice oak staircase. For a small cottage anything under 42 degrees...