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The original constraint on stock thickness was caused by the double-strap hinges. But I'm having trouble sourcing new hinges with a gap less than 3". I'm now thinking of just using single-strap hinges. That would at least allow me to adjust to suit the timber.

Ah - that's the crux of the matter! Once built, I don't want to make another one! Without giving too much away, I'd like it to last 30 years with minimal maintenance. I have decent quality DIY machinery - a Makita brick-type thicknesser, Dewalt Mitre & table saws, half-decent router table and a...

I'll look into these. Would they be suitable to leave uncoated? Ah - there is a place nearby - Wentwood - that usually has some rough sawn local sweet chestnut. It would be nice to use UK wood. I've emailed them, so we'll see how they respond.

It helps immensely! Thanks for taking the trouble to answer all of my questions. There is an obvious water trap - the trellis joinery into the middle rail: This is how the original gate was joined, and most of the rot is in the middle rail because of it, I suspect. I'm not sure how to improve...

I hadn't though of that - good question! I assume they are - they're 20" x 20" brick posts, around 6' tall. I don't know what the foundations are like though: The hinge points are anchored between layers of bricks, and the horizontal component is 3/4" thick: They seem rock-solid, so I'd like...

These comments are super-useful. Thank you! Just to be clear, I don't want to paint it. I wan't to let it go silver and occasionally replenish it with teak oil or similar. The house already has quite a bit of painted external joinery, and I'm getting too old for it!

My old garden gates are rotten, and beyond the point of patching up, so I'd like to make some new ones, with the same overall design. I've often heard Iroko mentioned as the material of choice for exterior joinery, and I've come across a few online dealers that will plane to size, and even...

There's a lot more to sanding floors than just getting the right equipment, so do your research on the techniques first. Howtosandafloor dot com is an excellent resource, and he has a YouTube channel with several videos highlighting the pitfalls. The machines capable of completing the job in a...

The blurb says the Pegler ones are bi-directional. I remember checking that the mid-range ones that they replaced were bi-directional and fitted on the correct side (and correct orientation). They worked fine with no hunting - until they failed. I think they were just cheap ones at mid-range...

A follow up. Another TRV Failed almost immediately on sorting out the previous one - same fault: split plastic in the insert. So I looked into some high quality ones in anticipation of replacing all the upstairs ones straight away. I was surprised to find that Honeywell, Drayton and Danfoss all...

Thanks a million guys. Here's the leaky TRV, which uses a plastic nut to pack the o-ring onto the pin. You can see that the sleeve has sheared off from the plastic nut due to the water pressure. My older TRVs have brass ones, hence them lasting longer. As tempting as it is to curse modern...

Yet another upstairs radiator TRV has started leaking, and like the many previous occasions, has made a mess of the ceiling below. There are a lot in my house, fitted before I moved in 20 years ago, and though the original ones occasionally fail, I find newer replacement ones start leaking...

No offence taken, but thank you. Tool buying is certainly a compromise. All the best, Paul.

Mine is about 15 years old and has been used occasionally but heavily in bursts (if that makes sense) for sistering joists as well as routing cables through them with spade bits. It hasn't failed me, but I will say it doesn't 'feel' like a quality tool.

Well 4 of them are drills - very convenient for pilot/main/countersink etc, plus an angled drill. Some of them are also garden tools, like an excellent pole chainsaw for lopping. Others are cordless versions of corded tools I already own, eg router, jigsaw etc. I love my corded Makita jigsaw...

More information needed to properly answer this question. Are you talking about all Ryobi tools, or just the cordless ones? Will they get a daily hammering, or occasional DIY use? For mains powered tools, I've stuck to Makita, Dewalt, Bosch and Festool. I did have a large Ryobi mains router...

It would be worth getting an expert to 'diagnose' the patchiness. It's probable that some of the old finish is still on it, but there are other possibilities too. For example, I notice that a lot of the darker areas are just in front of the door. If the finish wore off there a long time ago...

It looks to me like you didn't get all the old finish off when you first sanded it. This is a common error when sanding floors, as the boards initially appear to be well sanded, but become patchy like this as soon as you apply stain/finish. If I'm correct, then the only solution is to sand...

Aaarghh, I should have paid more attention to the original post. I got Titan and Triton mixed up! Mine is the Triton TRA001 that comes with a winding handle. This effectively means it can be used as its own lift in a router table. Sorry about that. Looking forward to seeing what solution you...

I installed a Titan in an old Ryobi router table about three years ago. Had the same problem re. unusual mounting hole pattern, but managed to find a position that worked. Care was necessary to drill a hole that aligned well for the lifting handle, and you need to make it about the same size as...