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Can I take this please?

try asking here, a lot of American collectors post on here. https://m.facebook.com/groups/thevintagetoolpatch/?tsid=0.47669080607116054&source=result

Try this guy, seems to have parts for everything. Just Plane Fun - the parts division or a wanted add on here may be worth a try https://www.facebook.com/groups/thevintagetoolpatch

Thanks Mike , let me know how much and how you would like payment 👍

Thanks , will give them a call 👍

Thanks Mike

Has anyone got a collar for a record 146 holdfast they would like to sell?

be interested to know your thoughts on the drill, It Would only be for occasional hobby use

Ok thanks, I think I will take the burr off and start again, don't think I've quite got the hang of it yet.

Would this also apply to preparing the blade in a Stanley No80? I have recently bought an old one, put a primary bevel on the blade at 45 degrees and then burnished. When I tried to use it with minimal set it seemed to dig in to the timber, almost as it the burr was too much, if that makes sense.

Yes, he covers the sole of the plane with tape then, with a tiny amount of set on the blade, makes a couple of passes on the diamond plate to give a small bevel, then adjusts the primary bevel to suit.

Thanks Argus, some useful pointers there. I have mounted the blade back in the plane and checked on a piece of glass and everything looks fine, the edge of the blade is co-planar with the sole of the plane . I'm going to check the fit of the blade in the mounting pillar now you have mentioned...

I've recently bought an old Stanley No71 router plane, which has cleaned up ok, I now need to sharpen it!! Half inch cutter first, I've flattened the bottom and got an nice even, square primary bevel, the question is where do I hone the secondary bevel, if at all ?? Paul Seller has a video...

We are on our second mattress from John Ryan, first one lasted 10 years. Really helpful if you ring them to discuss whet you need.

Well done @AndyT , well presented and interesting. Really enjoying these talks, hope they keep going after all the lockdown nonsense is over.

who do you use Ian, I can’t seem to find a saw doctor close to me that does hand saws

Thanks for the link Nigel, that’s this evenings reading sorted 👍

The lever cap arrived Friday, along with a frog, iron, cap iron and a low profile knob, all from a 1910 USA No6. The lever cap looks like an early one as it has the keyhole shaped hole, the low knob also looks correct for an early model, the iron is marked Stanley USA but looks newer than the...

Thanks for the advice and video Tom, more viewing for this evening :D . My preference is to watch someone make things with basic tools and skill , much like MikeG has done with his kitchen dresser thread. i think the issue is the internet is full of people telling you that you must do things a...

Thanks for the link Martin. I think you are right with type 6, the only differences I can see between a 5 and 6 are in the lever cap,iron and chip breaker, which are all missing so I will never know for sure. The important thing is that it works well, but I do like the idea of it looking...