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The consumer unit is only on the opposite wall, so pretty close. I was plugged into a proper wired socket, no extension leads etc. I'll give the 16amp socket a go today - I think that will resolve this issue. Thanks

Thank you - that looks like it has given me a good solution. I appreciate the prompt and helpful replies from everybody.

I do have a spare 16amp socket. Can I just replace the current standard 13A 3 pin plug for a 16A plug (one of the blue ones ?)

I have the Record BS400 bandsaw which regularly blows the 13A fuse in the plug on start up. This must be caused by the initial power draw and I note the model is now sold with a 16 amp supply. I have a bag full of new 13A fuses by the plug which steadily depletes ! I am just wondering if there...

I just use a remote control plug in socket - available on Amazon etc. Works a treat and dead simple

That search term worked just fine yesterday but, as you say, now just throws up D &D stuff ! Try this...

I think the paint can forge is a right of passage - you make one, realise it's not really doing the job and get what you should have bought in the first place ! I have a Dragon Forge which I'm very pleased with. Not a lot of money (they start at just over £100). Search for DRAGON-FORGE on ebay...

Once you have your bevel angles ground then restoring the edge on Tormek is very quick and accurate - I can get back on the lathe in under a minute.

Or if you have a lathe make up a sanding disc and table to go on the lathe and save on space and money. I use mine all the time (needed to do this as I am short of space in the shop)

I would echo the caution in this post. If you want to continue to use it as a snooker table then you need to treat it as a piece of precision machinery. Personally, I would get some expert advice.

Thank you

Very nice work. I've used 01 to date because I can harden in my little Devil Forge and temper in the kitchen oven - works fine but over time the tarnish detracts from the look. Stainless Steel treatment looks way beyond me in terms of heat treatment - is the XHP you reference any easier ?

If there is a a threaded rod (called a worm drive/gear ?) you might find the thread has worn so the raising element keeps slipping ? This happened to my fathers table saw. I think grease and sawdust can be quite abrasive over time.

With the sharpening jigs on my Tormek I'm back on the lathe in seconds as well - I can't sharpen freehand for toffee ! Jigs all the way ...

Bit more expense but I have a similar garage and three things made an unbelievable difference; 1. Swap the up and over door for a pair of side opening doors 2. Fit a substantial high quality door cill to stop the draughts round the bottom 3. Insulate the back of the doors with celotex or similar...

I stripped a similar table. When I removed the legs the original mounting holes from the lathe were still there, so I was able to put them straight back on the lathe and re-sand whilst maintaining the original shape. Quite a quick process too.

Putting your binoculars on a tripod for everyday use (wildlife watching for example) makes an enormous difference - it feels like you have upgraded to a whole new pair.

Combination Square - many marking and laying out functions in one tool

Thomas Johnson Furniture Restoration on You Tube did some work on a long case clock a while back. He uses proper methods in his work so happy to recommend a viewing.

I attached some thick wood to a faceplate (my wood is 30mm - just two pieces of chipboard from some cheap furniture glued together), turned a 300mm diameter disk, then attached a self-adhesive abrasive disc. I've done loads of segmented with it. I also made a sanding table which can be attached...