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I may have said it before but thats a beast of a machine. The gears look like new and bonus that they are turning freely. Looking forward to pics of it completed and working. Well done

I have a cheap one I think from screwfix or b@q Its got performance power on it but the top of the drill can be rotated by releasing a couple of grub screws. It wont drill anywhere near 250mm but if you rotate it 90 degrees you may be able to drill 250mm in stages off the side of the bench...

You probably already know but use glue fitting waste pipe not the push fit. I had them push apart as some were used in my house when plunging the sink at later date. Luckily they were easily accessible. You dont want any leaks etc under the floor

Not sure if it would work or possible but what about reinforcing between the joists above the soleplate before cutting.

No I am not sure re soleplate cutting I just thought as they are sleepers it might be an easier option but if you don't have the fall to the outside then that idea won't work.

Can you drill through the sleeper walls just below the sole plate instead of cutting?

I have it in my house as floor and its glued together but floating under the skirting boards. My mate put it down flush to the skirting boards and when the house heated up he ended up with a 6" high mound (bit like a trampoline) in the middle of the hall. Alasdair

Laminate doesnt warp much but can expand with heat so fix in the middle as well as it can bow. Cant see it bowing much over 600mm but better to be on the safe side.

Another source is gumtree or ebay. Folks selling half packs etc. Also check your local recycling. You quite often find them being dumped when folks change there floor.

If using laminate then roughen the reverse as its pretty smooth. to get a key for the glue The one to go for is the cheaper MDF based one. Some are plastic/vinyl now but may be difficult to glue. B&Q and wickes etc sometimes have damaged packs for sale cheap.

Another option would be wetwall offcuts from bathroom installers?

If you have a sign shop/manufacturer local they will have offfcuts of plastic sign material they would probably give you. The type that they stick letters etc onto. I have a big stack i bought cheap at an auction. Easy to cut with a saw and smooth. I have a piece on my fence around 10mm thick...

I use an old axe which I keep for dirty jobs . Its heavy and has a broken short shaft. I also have a small pick like your link. As said takes a while but you get rid of the stump without paying a fortune to get someone to grind it out.

Have an old elu bandsaw which I am also reconditioning. Its not the best as it was cheap and one of the later elu/black and decker models. Been reading on here re tough saw blades which I intend to get. Made a heavy base for it a while ago but never used it much due to the crappy blades it came...

Most electric ones I have seen have a 91 narrow kerf chain. It cuts thinner so the saw doesn't get bogged down. The 91 chain is also low kickback and as pointed out they stop immediately when no power. If you want the stumps out of smaller trees then leave a decent length of trunk and dig around...

Points taken cutting without fence. Its generally odd one of cuts like pieces of sarking when replacing odd shaped boards in my old steading roof. Not so much a habit but will be very careful.

An electric chainsaw should be fine. Just been cutting 10" old leylandii to reduce height of hedge with a Florabest 15" 2000w 240v I got from lidl a few years ago as a backup as my trusty jonsered isn't so trusty anymore. If the stump is 30" dia then you will need a 15" bar minimum. Also...

Hi pete just removed drive wheel and checked fitment. The bush seems to fit perfectly (snug fit both ends but will try some marker to make sure. Only thing I havent checked is the threads of the grubscrews. They look the same when compared to the original but they may be imperial. I am hoping as...

I used Floor tite screws from toolstation. There blue in colour and supposed to be designed for squeaky boards. Easy to use and so far no more squeaks. The product code is TFFT4245 They have twin and single threads and the box says will not work loose.

I will be leaving the crown guard on as recomendations. The only time I cut to a line without the fence is for tapered cuts on long lengths of timber which I am very careful and make sure I am not interupted or distracted. Alasdair