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In looking at your photos I see what your doing. That is not a bad idea at all! That line is critical to getting a good fit. And the craft knife is relatively cheap. Cross man has some interesting ideas but he also sells tools. He had added modern touches like composite handles to his saws. But...

Agreed. It’s a style thing. I have looked in old literature to find history behind this but have not found anything yet. The problem with time is that time often takes unique skills to the grave. The traditional metal machine world is the worst. We have lost so many older machinists and...

The difference between a box joint and dovetail joint is that one is a locking joint. The box joint is insanely strong because of its huge long grain glue area. But it is entirely based on the glue joint. If the glue fails the joint fails. the dovetail joint locks in one direction usually...

Your correct to a point. The strength of a dovetail joint is firstly based on the surface area of the long grain contact between the tail and pin sides. Then you need to consider where and how your long grain fibers are anchored. in the tail, you have a rectangle holding your primary long...

what I found difficult in the early days was keeping a mental picture of the anatomy of a tail joint straight. What is a tail board? what is a pin board? What is a socket? Etc! You need to burn these images into your mind forwards and backwards. If you have to think your not there yet. A...

SWEET!!!!!!!! Lovely work done in real wood with skill and care to solve a practical problem. I absolutely love it!!!!!!

Times have changed. My dad taught me as a kid. He was a gentleman woodworker who struggled. I learned from kluau Times have changed. My father taught me as a kid and he was a gentleman woodworker who struggled. As a computer engineer I mastered the art from guys like Kingshot, Becksvort and...

I have a jewelers saw and a coping saw with a red CNC body. Don’t recall who made it but it was pricey. I like these saws for small precise work and I got the red saw to help with dovetails. what I don’t like is the trade off between super precise control of a very fine blade and speed of cut...

When you do woodworking for a paycheck you often get into fake wood. My last job was programming and running CNC dowel inserters and flat bed routers. Particle board MDF melamine commercial stuff. It sucks cow manure compared to real woodworking. in my personal shop I do both metal and wood...

Its about comfort and control. When you find something that works stick with it. I use one hand to hold the first board and the other to mark out. So tapping never occurred to me. But it makes sense.

Agreed. Also remember you want good surface finish. You don’t want a polished perfect surface as this thing is a glue joint. A bit of roughness helps here. The 10 to 16 TPI rip is an excellent balance here. You can see the teeth for sharpening, you have good speed on the cut, your surface is...

In the half lap or blind. It is most often tails first cuz you need to mark out the sockets. If you do sockets first you cannot mark the tails. On a thru, either way works and it’s presence

it’s hard to know why many masters did this. I think it may have been a means to get more tails. I did a machinist chest years back where I needed two tails on the narrow drawers. Not easy! The machine router jig was not even close. Needed small precise tails. solved by going to the pin tail...

Yup that’s Frank! Note why he cuts the pin board first…… no layout of the tails …..Note the importance of the angle .,.. it just needs to be close. Note he has absolute control of saw and where he is wasting the line. Big issue with fixed router jigs… your bloody half pins! You need them! Not...

Pine is a soft wood but modern pine is fourth or fifth generation these days. That means wide jouvenile growth rings and softer more fiberous sap wood. In the states, Townsend was a decifle of chippendale and his work was walnut and pine (often not always). Chippendale used Cuban mahogany and...

Both! He did this for a living so it’s about saving time. I use sharp chisels and pare my way to the end. I like the sharp neat corners of the socket you get with hand tools. No machine will get you that. once you have your initial saw kerf, you have a guide to help you pare down by nibbling...

Agreed. The English saw has a narrow kerf but it’s got a brass backbone. The flexi nature of Japanese saws is uncomfortable even when they cut on the pull.

LOL… Didn’t have the boss wondering why your not running the job on the CNC router! He had me run 25 feet of molding on a point to point CNC router. Took 30 min to run one stick. I could have run twice the foot count in half the time on the Wynig molder. But what if your matching a molding on...

I am in the states. Finding the good stuff is one step above impossible so I opted for new. Frank Klauze used a bow saw. I started with a coping saw and hacksaw. I have tip tennon and cross tennon saws. It can be done if you master the control. Some like Japanese saws. After years of doing this...

I have the most respect for klusze and love his music. But I like Becksvort approach better. YouTube Just another dovetailing video. One key take away from frank is “inside of tree/outside of drawer”. This grain orientation allows the joint to tighten as the wood dries and shrinks