Search results

They are known as skirting blocks and are specifically intended to regulate any deviations between skirting and architrave, so the ideal thing here. Some people do them just for the look of them. Ed

Interestingly I have 2 saws from my late father in laws tools, one Disston and one Spear and Jackson. He passed away before I met my wife, so could never ask him which he preferred though..... Of the two I prefer the Disston. Ed

I thought Beech was meant to be fairly stable? Ed

Very tidy work. Personally I'd just buy the windows, but I'm sure you'll end up with a better end product this way. Ed

He's not Rob Cosman either... (unless he's bi-polar) Ed

Provided it suits the size you want, CLS is normally a cost effective way of buying 'utility' wood. Wickes is my outlet of choice for this sort of thing, but that may be a throwback to my Saturday job sweeping the floor there 20 years ago. Ed

I wonder why all the new wave of specialist saw makers are American? The offerings from Flinn Garlick look OK, but don't go quite as far as some of the tool fetishists among us would like ( I include myself in that). I am also in the market for some saws at the moment and I like the idea of...

Having looked at the diagram on your web page I think the full size drawing to set a bevel is the only way I could do it; I got lost in the algebra part way through. :lol:

Theres also an opportunity for an extensive debate about the precise angle of the legs here...

I dont think you need to put up with denting either. If ones benchtop is meant to be flat and reliable as a reference surface when building furniture I would have thought that avoiding dents and dings was pretty important. OK you can plane it flat but the point I was making was that with...

Well I've been wondering the same thing. If you suck up a Kilogram of dust, its a kilogram wherever you empty it from. I don't see why its any more trouble to empty it from the extractor than it is to empty it from a wooden box. Maybe I'm missing something... Ed

My stand had a solid top, so I cut a square hole in the top and then fixed the hopper to the underside of that. I made some timber fillets to block the hole between the saw and the stand and sealed it with duct tape. Ed

They are a useful size - I have a couple of them. Just not sure if I can justify any more, although it is a good price...... Ed

Its not a saw horse, its a saw bench. The distinction between the 2 might be esoteric, but I believe they are different things. The article I linked to clarifies why. Ed

I'm not concerned at all about dents in the softwood sawbench, what I'm saying is that if I had laboured long and hard on a full size bench in softwood I'd be frustrated for it to be covered in dents after 6 months. I agree that the sawhorse is a bit more sacrificial. The exercise of doing this...

Yes I thought that would be coming as I typed it! Without starting all that again, lets just say that some people, for some applications, sometimes need a more slender knife... Ed

The issue I have found is that when you use the Rob Cosman style of pins that are a saw kerf thick at one end, most marking knives are too thick to fit. Even my Blue Spruce is too fat, so you have to find an alternative, which for some limited occasions this could be. I use a thin stanley blade...

It would save all this torment with your tablesaw :lol: I'm intending to push myself to saw by hand more because I think once it becomes more natural it will be a quicker and cleaner way of working in a lot of cases. Ed

Are you not planning to saw anything then? Actually I don't know how useful it will be, but I'll give it a go. Ed

Its softwood, which is what led to my comment. My tenons were snug fitting and when I tapped it apart with a Thor rubber mallet after a test fit I ended up with loads of dents. I planed these out, but it made me think that a workbench made out of this would be wrecked after 12 months. Ed