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Hi Joschua, That is seriously cool - just the sort of thing I had in mind. I would be proud of it too. Jim

A bit morbid perhaps but still a serious question. As we get older many of us increasingly consider our own mortality, even though we may not talk about it much. Many of us also have quite a lot of mooney tied up in tools and machinery while having family who have little or no knowledge of the...

I hope it does survive. Pre Thomas Flinn, Clifton was owned by Clico for whom Clifton was only ever a sideline in which they invested very little money. The established Clifton products were metal spokeshaves and shouder planes which were very good. My guess is that when they decided to...

I have one made for me by a good friend, with a maple handle and Australian Ironwood head - serious weapon. Jim

Glad it is resolved and I have found Dieter Schmid to be excellent too. Jim

It sounds like a pile of rubbish. It would be interesting to know if other members have had similar experiences and whether current production is any better. Jim

I can't see any technical reason why you should not use cheaper hardwood ply but I wouldn't simply for the reason that the surcing of so much of it is dubious and unsustainable, their is a reason why it is cheap. If you can source birch ply at what you describe as a reasonable price, then why...

Titebond is over priced in my view. Plenty of good PVAs available for much less.. I like Bison PU; has a relatively long open time and does not foam excessively. Jim

I agree with Peter. There are also a couple of othe points. First PVA joints can creep under sideways pressure which UF will not, although probably not relevant to a vacuum pressed speaker panel. Second if you inadvertantly get a small area of inadequate glue coverage leading to a bubble (as...

The wet optionis the one I would want to keep and probably use most - zero chance of overheating on a regrind - although I would probably put a finer wheel on it. Definitely wouldn't acrap the water bath. Jim

Seriously cool. Good luck with the flying. Jim

I have been using Japanese water stones for many years and my sharpening station amounts to a piece of pond liner on a work surface and a sqeazy bottle of water. Admittedly, the work surface is next to the workshop sink with hot and cold water. I keep my stones in plastic bacon boxes, with or...

Looks like you might be right, Kev, which is sad because I'm quite certain that there are plenty of people out there who are producing lovely practical stuff which makes their workshops nicer places to be. I wouldn't want anyone to think my workshop is anything like those American tool palaces...

Or another possible title might have been "should workshop stuff look good?". I have a rule of thumb which I mostly stick to - if it's a one-off which probably won't get used again, or only rarely, it can look as rough and ugly as necessary for speed of making; function is all. If I am going...

Sounds like a good idea. Jim

I have solved similar clamping probles by planing a lengths of softwood so that they have a convex form over their length length. These are then clamped at each end with the convex surface downwards so that pressure is applied along the whole length by straightening the curve. So far as...

No reasoon whatsoever. I have one and it is really excellent and vastly superior in design terms to the LN which I had before the Veritas. I have other block planes, all of which I use at various times but you can't go far wrong with the Veritas skew and there are some thinks it can do that...

I have a smaller non-sliding Makita but the more basic problem with all these designs which have a small port on the back of te saw body is that extraction is rubbish whatever you do with the port. Part of the problem is that a substatial proportion of the dust generated never even makes it...

Lovely work, as ever. Jim

Looking forward to seeing more. Jim