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I’d have thought that DIYers, who work on their projects on an occasional basis, could be said to be safer than a pro who works with machines 40 hours a week. It’s easier to become complacent if you’re doing something day in, day out. I know that when I’m using the router or bandsaw I check...

MFT top definitely a good investment. About £50 from CNC machining suppliers, one in Wrexham I think. With one of those and a set of parf dogs you won’t need a square to cut dead on accurate cross cuts, both at right angles and 45 degrees.

You can make a router table in its simplest form from 2 bits of sheet material such as MDF. It won’t be as quick or easy to adjust as a bought table but it will be every bit as accurate and effective.

Nice! What’s that finish?

I converted what were base unit cupboards to 3 drawer units. The standard Blum soft close runners hold up to 30kg so heavy crockery etc is no problem. And it means no scrabbling about on hands and knees trying to get stuff out. Brilliant.

I bought my Festool specifically to refurb my kitchen. I left the carcasses, but made new doors and drawers from MDF and ply and new Blum runners. Best investment I’ve ever made, and as Peter Millard says it ain’t just for sheet goods.

I did think of lime, will revisit that idea. I must say I never thought of poplar though, I do have a couple of bits knocking about so will have a play before I start making in earnest. The suggestion from Sunnybob also is worth considering. Thanks to all for your ideas.

Thanks Sunnybob, that’s helpful

Thanks Pete, yes I have made stuff from beech, and it works well, but I was looking for something with a bit more interest in the grain while retaining strength in all directions.

I’m in the process of making an ark and animals for my grandson’s Christmas present. I’ve made the ark from plywood, nicely sanded and rounded off and finished with Polyvine and wax. I plan to make the animals from solid timber using a thin blade on my bandsaw and then sanding to final shape...

Not so for all sockets. I've just looked at a spare single socket I have and one screw hole is earthed, the other isn't.

Film? Developed? Didn’t know anyone still did that.

Festool plunge saw is a better option than the circular saw. You can use it for cross cutting too, very straightforward with a CNC machined MFT top, so it’s actually more versatile. I don’t know where you got the info Festool quality going downhill. I have the tracksaw, OF1400 router, ETS sander...

If you have a router table you can use a groover to cut off the lid. It makes a very neat and accurate job. I cut all the way through 2 opposing sides and nearly all the way through the other two. This supports the cut which you can then finish with a few strokes of a Stanley knife. Then I sand...

I've used similar corner plates and they work just fine. I had some fancy dished brass washers which I used with similar colour screws which set it off nicely.

Thanks again for the info Alex, most helpful. I will contact the company.

Thanks for that. That website is not the easiest to navigate and I find the array of products overwhelming. Does the stay you mention hold the lid up or just provide soft close?

I've knocked up the attached for my one year old grandson to keep his toys in order. It's 12mm MDF panels in softwood frame, 800 by 40 by 40. I've left the gap at the front to a) provide a grip to open the lid and b) mitigate the risk of fingers being caught/crushed. I would like to fit some...

When I first saw the title of the post I thought it was a joke along the lines of a chocolate teapot.

I'm not sure if the screw will be the complete solution. It will keep the foot of the upright off the flag but in my experience you will get as much water bouncing off the flag onto the wood as might be absorbed through the base.