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I don’t use clamps on the track either for sawing or routing. The strips on the track base provide sufficient friction as long as you are careful.

I swear by my track saw for not only large sheet cutting but also smaller pieces of timber, knowing that I can quickly make absolutely square and repeatable cuts. One point which I don’t think has been emphasised as much as it should have been is the quality of the cut. I have used a Bosch...

I have mounted a Bosch 1/4 inch router in a home made table which I clamp in the bench vice. Only expense was to buy T track and feather boards for the fence. I removed the springs from the legs and am able to adjust the height reasonably easily. Although I don’t use it much, when I do need it...

Have used my Festool for over two years now and I have never clamped the track. I did buy the trigger type clamps but never used them. The sticky strips on the base hold the track perfectly in position and I have never got less than perfect and accurate cuts.

My 4 linked smoke alarms have gone off twice in the last week with no apparent reason. I took one down to see when it was made - 2005! So I have ordered 4 Kidde units from Aldi, £7.99 a pair, which looks to be excellent value, particularly with free delivery. Not linked but I’m not sure if this...

Thanks both for those replies. I might have a go at Chris Tribe’s idea.

Has anyone any experience of looky-likey bags for the CTL Midi, like these: https://www.dustbag.co.uk/?i=1448671&ut ... 0DEALw_wcB They’re nearly half the price of the pukka ones at Axi but clearly, if they’re no good, they aren’t a bargain.

+1 for track saw. You can get very accurate angles, very quickly.

Just looked at the label on my bit of MDF from B&Q and it doesn't mention Medite as the maker - wonder if it is stacked separately in the warehouse?

Thanks for all the replies. MRMDF seems the way to go, I still fancy doing the grooving myself, have done the test piece with my Festool router and track and it has worked out well and not too time consuming.

I plan to board the lower half of my hallway with 6mm MDF, which I will rout with V grooves 100mm apart, in order to create the impression of T&G boards. I will paint with white eggshell. I bought a small MDF board from B&Q to set up my router and make a jig to ensure repeatability of the...

You want one of those machines they have at IKEA, which open and close drawers to destruction.

Try disabling the soft close mechanism on one runner. I did this unwittingly when fitting my kitchen drawers - I needed a bit more clearance on one runner and thought I could achieve it by sawing off a small metal projection on the runner. This projection actuates the ‘brake’ but there is still...

Oh well, each to their own. Seeing them in the flesh as opposed to a photo, the current ones look a bit spindly (excuse the pun) and plain. I prefer the more substantial look of the replacements together with the slightly greater ornamentation. I probably wouldn't have considered doing it were...

In the end decided to replace the spindles for the whole staircase. I got them from Pear Stairs (recommended). They are 35mm in section, existing ones are 24 x 28 and are located in a socket of the same size in each tread, so I had to create stub tenons at the base of each new spindle. Tedious...

Hi and welcome. I think 27mm square for the frame is too small. I built a small lean-to shed with attached log store a couple of years ago and used 3x2 for the vertical members and cross pieces at the base and roof. I think anything smaller would not have been up to the job.

I asked for gas and electricity smart meters to be fitted (EDF). This on the basis of being able to track my expenditure. Fitting carried out very effectively. Worked for 2 weeks then gas stopped transmitting. 3 further visits from engineers to try and sort it. Finally said it wasn't working as...

Yes, the more I look at it the more I agree with you AndyT re replacing the spindles. The black will be a nice contrast with the white.

I took off the 4 spindles around the post so I could get a better look. I removed the screws securing the top of the post to the underside of the banister end (technically termed the volute, I believe). I then found that the volute would rotate upwards giving enough room to lift the post...

Thanks Jacob, I respect your knowledge and opinion. As there is a crack in the block under the post I will have a go at detaching one half of it complete with the post. If this isn't feasible I will revert to the in situ approach.