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Thanks Steve. After spending almost year obtaining planning permission (LBC withdrawn as it technically fell out of the Grd II curtilage), you will see I am building a workshop in my garden - there is a thread in the workshop build forum.

That is really helpful guidance. I have undertaken a lot of lime mortaring but no this and the application of using the hawk etc. are very similar. Your guidance on the application of the oil to the brick work is very helpful. Many thanks.

Hpps, Firstly as a long-term owner of a Grade II property and with extensive experience dealing with the authorities, I would strongly recommend that you join the Listed Property Owners Club (LPOC). This will give you a great resource for advice etc. This Grd II listing covers both inside and...

Do you have any tips for me? I have a very old property and will be resealing the windows and doors to the brick work and want to try and use burnt sand and linseed oil.

I have just read this thread and thought the document reference below might be of interest. https://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/linseed-oil-paints/linseed-oil-paints.htm

Deema, I use a piece of wood 4ft or so tied to the ladder (tied 90 at the bottom) with foam insulation under it (or something similar) this helps spread the load. - I also add foam padding to the ladder hook feet. I have 300 yr old kent peg clay tiles and cast iron gutters.... and this works for...

I regularly heed go on our roof to replace tiles etc. and always use a ladder standoff. as resting the ladder on the gutter causes damage AND is less stable (not a lot of friction). I have a second ladder with a roof hook and wheels hooked over the ridge and then tie the first ladder to the...

Jameshow, It's going to have 4t of clay tiles on it but yes I embedded 25 metal ties into the concrete base and these are in turn screwed into the wood frame just in case.

It has been a while so I thought I would post a photo of my progress. One thing I have learned is undertaking a project like this by yourself is hard work - just physically moving the materials around by yourself is a task in itself. It is critical to plan your material deliveries both timing...

Rockwool has a product (RWA75) that is specially designed to attenuate noise and provide heat insulation - similar to std Rockwool. I looked at this myself but decided to go with PIR all round on the basis of long-term cost savings WRT to heating. If noise is a big issue I can always add an...

Deema, Many thanks that makes perfect sense.

Sideways, I am looking at buying a Sedgwick PT so I have been reading this thread very carefully and I must say it is a brilliant post (thank you). I have a couple of questions that I hope you can help clarify. Firstly, does the planer table height adjustment have any slack in or is it packed to...

My build is 100 x 50 stud work, 95mm PIR between, and 11osb on the outside (glued and screw in place). The PIR will be tapped on the inside and eventually there will be cladding (probably 9mm ply) on the inside. The outside of the 11mm OSB will be battened vertically and the horizontal...

Chipmonk, have you considered the DW7485. I use one of these and they are great (accurate and very consistent) and a lot cheaper than the 7492.

Jones, Thanks for this. The noggins are in now so I will keep them in place. The 2 x8 is a good idea and I will probably go with this although the 300mm may be reduced to 200mm - depending on the window height (can't get the original windows I planned for now....).

You may have seen that I am building a 4.4 x 6.8 workshop. The walls, 2000mt high, will be 4 x 2 filled with 90 PIR & a noggin midway up between 600mm studs. The outside will be 11mm OSB, glued and screwed, and weatherboard. The Inside will probably be 9mm ply. The 45deg pitched roof will be...

If the fines are small enough and dry enough static may be a risk but in this scenario, it is likely to be a small one (the fines to large particle ratio is also important). This fire started because the bitumen became hot and set a smoldering fire in the dust collector. I would hope that the...

My advice would be to ensure you have the ability to inject water into the dust collector. If you use a CO2/powder extinguisher etc. you will run the risk of disturbing the dust fines, creating a dust explosion before you have sufficient concentration of the extinguishing agent. This was my area...

Dennis, I have just read your full thread. What a great project. I like the way you think things through - I have a bad back and like you have to be very careful in what I do and also consider the amount of work each day. I am mid-way through my build and find I spend more time working out the...

You should clean the area really well (wire brush), remove the old mortar, and then as previous posts have highlighted soak with water the day before, then an hour or so beforehand. Cover after when pointed for at least a week and keep the cover damp. Using lime in the mix will certainly help...