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A 45 degree cut was the norm to stop water running inwards. Two sets of plugs and screws to hold the new piece to the wall. That was in the days when money was tight, nobody would go,to that trouble today. A new jamb or,complete,frame is quicker,and easier. Softwood is not that expensive! If you...

I suggest that you clean off as much of the existing finish as possible using white spirit before sanding by hand or using a RO sander. Refinish with two coats of spirit based Matt or satin varnish, if you are happy with the appearance, then furniture wax would be a good idea. The great...

I think that some are based on the design used in a hand brace (left hand side of my pic) and some are more suited to power drill use, on the,right. If using the original design in a power drill you tend to get a lot of heat.

The three on the left are part of a set, two Axminster on the right

I have found the Axminster own brand to be good and easy to sharpen if required. I buy individual bits as needed rather than sets.

I suggest you search one of the many posts on Cascamite, don't buy any until you have. There is a serious problem with it not setting.

I had in mind a beefed up section to support the string. JW Riley's book was the standard text book when I went to the Tech in 1959 I still refer to it occasionally. My copy is dated 1952, I bought a second hand one for my son more than 20 years back after being told it was out of print,

To be constructive, a possible solution would be an apron rail as I suggested above. If we step back a few decades and consult the FOC on line copy of Riley's Manual of Carpentry and Joinery, figure 848 on page 438 shows a rail in use. Sketch 839 on page431 may also help. It's no good trying to...

I think the gaps beneath the balusters must be caused by the cantilever action of the treads and risers easing the wall string fixings out a little or, in the worst case, the treads and risers easing out of the sinkings. Either way that outer string needs support now! Long term an apron rail ot...

No wonder it's moving in use, as already pointed out there is very little of the string depth left. You need at least 150mm at the narrowest point. Have a look at Mike G ,s post " a cut string staircase blow by blow" posted about six months ago. If you have done others like this the customers...

That's the name that escaped me! Scrub plane

When the photos appear I think they will show that the cut string is deflecting under load and causing the gap to appear. I can't think of anything that would make the handrail rear up and pull the joints open. Even the nail method shown by Cabinetman wouldn't show a gap under the balusters.

The proper joint between the treads and spindles on a cut string flight is a dovetail joint. Your method has the spindle hanging on just the glue on the dowel.

Can't help with a makers name but I think that is a hogging plane, used for swift removal of timber when hand finishing a glue jointed table top or similar wide board. Used at about 45 degrees to the grain before finishing with jack and smoothing planes. Very hard work!

I think it's more like Sapelle, I can't agree with Iroko but agree that it may be one of th lower quality red/pink hardwoods like meranti or luan.

If you were the leader of a large economy and you had just made a complete hash of your first pre- election debate with the opposition. Would you be tempted, if your advisers suggested it, that you contract a virus from which you will recover with superman like efficiency and style.?? I don't...

Very nice looking work . I certainly wouldn't be concerned about the slight difference in colour. Is the ash European or American? Mike.

OK people, put the first aid manuals back on the shelf! Having thought about it this might be a method of making belt sander racing look boring!

You don't say what type of saw it is but I assume you mean what I call Skilsaw. The type you might use with a track system for cutting sheet material? If you think about it, rotation which made the cut from top to bottom of the material would tend to push the saw upwards and make it climb out...

I would favour the @Sgian Dubh solution but with a difference. Make the sides, top, and bottom out of 20 mm (minimum) thick solid material and then insert Tonk strips in the sides to give infinitely variable shelf heights and numbers to fit your needs. Only a few screws will be required to...