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Having proved that it will fit, you could now get the same result by easing the rebate in the area of the lock and then adjusting the lock striker plate. No material is removed from the bottom of the jamb just the lock area. Altering the rebates needs doing slowly and carefully . It's possible...

Let me suggest an exxperiment to illustrate a possible answer. Take a small piece of material about 6mm thick, open the door and place the material between the bottom of the door and the rebate. Pull gently on the handle from outside, if the door is capable of being twisted it should come much...

I don't think that the plans will be of any use for a wall cupboard. They are for a conventional floor standing unit with a triangular plan section.

I have a set of plans for a corner cupboard in oak but I'm mistified by the 2.6 you mention, is this the height? A rough sketch would be a help. Mike.

The sharpening tools are rotated with an old fashioned carpenters brace. I have one that fits in a drill chuck, it's far to easy to take off to much with that.

There will be no need to take any material from the bottom of the frame. If you take about 5mm from the centre of the frame in the area of the lock. Adjusting the lock striker plate should enable you to pull the door into the frame at the top.

If I have understood correctly you are saying that the stile on the lock side of the door is bent putting a twist in the top of the door. It should be possible to use a rebate plane to ease about 5mm or so out of the rebate and allow the latch ( after adjustment )to hold the door to a decent fit...

All of my machinery is fitted with wheels, the workshop just isn't big enough to operate any other way. The only machine that I thought might be a bit iffy was the mortiser but it's not a problem. I made steel frames with wheels that are rotated into contact with the floor when needed.

With three of you I wouldn't expect any problems. I have the same machine (M1) and recently had to replace the counterbalance cable. I'm no longer strong enough to lift out the counterweight singlehanded but was able to lay the machine down to near horizontal to slide it out and then lift the...

I have no knowledge of gas powered nail guns but have used the air powered ones and tried the electric version. Forget the electric types, utterly useless. Since it's only one house why not counterbore and screw before pelleting over the holes? A little extra work but better fixings and...

As stated you will need clamps at some stage so it's not money wasted, if all else fails think like a woodworker! Mortise and tenon joints are easy to draw bore together, no clamps or straps required.

Never mind the shooting board, do your feet still reach the pedals in the car? Mike.

I made four glass top doors for a teak cabinet in the 1970s . The doors consisted of just the stiles in timber with the glass glued into grooves in the edges of the stiles. This allowed me to use sprung cabinet hinges and avoided the costs of having any holes made in the glass, the glass was...

I use an OMAS 150mm dia wobble saw which gives 3 to 15 mm grooves. It's an accurate device but costs more than a single width groover.

Although I've never used a square block I saw them in use when I was an apprentice, just the draft from one was enough to keep me well away! I still have one of the round Whitehill safety blocks and some of the cutters I made or purchased long ago, they are no longer used and I am an...

I'm not certain where I bought this but the package mentions a Starkie website. Prior to buying this I used Solvol Autosol a metal polish. It's described as a paste but is in fact a sort of greasy crayon. Mike.

I will add my voice to that of Kattelwood, treat the machine with the greatest respect and caution. I have been using them for years and would urge you to start in the shallow end with a modern block with location pins and ensure that you use only modern cutter and profile sets! Don't be fooled...

You've already had good advice but here's a bit more from a worn out fireman, heat detectors will do the job in areas where either type of smoke detector could drive you mad with false alarms. Your best defence is known as good housekeeping! No you don't need to wear a pinny, it means leaving...

Have a look at Euro cutters 124, 136, and 137 and others around that area. You will need to look at Trend or Wealden since most other suppliers only show the popular cutter profiles that sell well. Mike.

I suggest that you look at the posts of Raymond UK . The obviously happy owner of a fox842 machine. Mike.