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My advice would be to only buy a camera with an instruction book! The Sony I bought has some very strange features but all the info is on line rather than to hand when needed. If you don't have a phone with Internet facility you are lost. I bought a Sony, it's rubbish!

This is a piece of 9mm MDF that I use. It sits level with the outside edge of the doors

Don't attempt to position the drill using the centre point, run the drill through a piece of scrap material and then clamp this piece to the back of the door to guide the drill when drilling the doors.

It won't last any longer than leaving it untreated but if you like the look then go for it!

Stainless will work harden immediately if the cutting tool is not very sharp. Cutting fluid may help but it's a difficult job.

It's not easy to find a decent supplier of piano hinge in my experience, most of the countersinking for the screws is inadequate. My answer is to use a countersink rather than try to drill out the holes. It's a long and tedious job that shouldn't be necessary.

As toolsntat points out the newel will need to be longer by the height of one riser in order to sit on the floor. Mike.

attachment=1]image.jpg[/attachment]Hi Basshound Sorry about the quality of these, I currently have two computers giving trouble. The best place to look at bull nose steps and similar things is the free online version of Riley's Manual of Carpentry and Joinery. Page 443 shows some versions. If...

I think the best method would be to cut back the string to the next riser up and fit a bull nose step at the bottom. This will allow you to make a new tenon and avoid a very iffy joint in the string. If you remove the bottom step completely and the second riser there will be plenty of working...

Screwing the boarding in place with or without spacers will allow access if needed to wiring etc. Knocking in nails will be very likely to cause cracks in ceilings.

To be boring it's supposed to an angle of one in six for softwood and one in seven for hardwoods. But just use an angle you like! Speed of making comes with practice.

Good point about surfaces that must be horizontal, in most pieces there are some, together with loads of unavoidable water traps. The quality f Iroko as an outdoor timber is evident in the photo. The date is genuine and the items have spent most of the time on my soggy lawn.

They appear to be Iroko so you should get about thirty years out of them. Like many suppliers these days they seem to have ignored the standard practice of years gone by, which is to put a minimum of 9 degrees of slope on all top surfaces to shed rainwater. This means that water will remain on...

For a 100 metre fence that's ten tins costing £200 in total plus the time to apply it. And I still guarantee no result!

Generally speaking if you don't want to change the appearance of the fence, it's a total waste of money using any type of coating in the hope of making it last longer. The decay when it arrives will normally occur in the joint between the boards and rails. The water hangs in the joint for long...

Wrong way! That is a normal thread. You are being confused by the fact that's it's inverted.

The top head has a right hand thread and the bottom has a left hand.

That's a very old piece of kit, it's of no use without the the jig that would go with it.

You could ask for a furniture stamp to be used, that will be concealed in the rebate. I only ever use laminated glass for this type of job, it's cut by the local glazier and marked as you require.

I would agree with making them easygoing. The best method of making timber non slip is to fasten chicken wire to the walking surface of the treads. This method is much used at marinas to make the jetties safe for use in the winter.