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This sounds like good news. Two questions though - is Eureka connected in any way to Polyvine ? Is there any sort of shelf life for the product ? Polyvine ruined the reputation of a great product and robbed me as a customer, I don’t trust any of their products.

OK I bought one of these about five years ago and have not taken it out of the box, my wife looked at the mock up for the piece of furniture and rejected it. I now consult authority before spending. Mike.

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Ive just looked at the exminster site to price s forstner bit and got a shock! Same Chinese carp but very new prices. It seems that a wind of change has hiked them out of my reach.

Little late now but I also have the Metabo, a great tool. I've been using the Bosch discs for a long time but I don't think they are as good as they were. Anyone using a better disc?

The mitre slot was useful in the past but is now largely replaced by a sliding mitre saw which is very accurate.

The saw fits neatly.

Hi Colin Yes mine was home made, most of the parts were leftovers from boat building. The top was purchased from a local scrap merchant when I took some off cuts in. I paid a local engineering firm to surface th top and cut the groove for the mitre guide. The dust shroud covers the blade and...

Snap! Well nearly. Mine is about thirty years old and has a three horse motor. The wheels are not very sophisticated but the whole thing works well and,as you say fits the space available.

I agree with the idea of not buying made in China if it can be avoided. I must be impossible to protect your designs and copywrite from the unscrupulous makers on the other side of the world and backed by a very unpleasant regime. Most guilty on this side of the water are the drop shippers who...

That mould looks like a standard from euro cutter No 508 It is normally quicker and cheaper overall to replace all of the moulding rather than trying to copy or bodge up the rotting piece. As already suggested, you only need to find someone with a spindle moulder.

That's a clear and sensible statement Colin. I've wondered throughout this thread if axi and other suppliers of plastic parts which are intended for use with drainpipe would find themselves in the firing line if the worse happened. I have some concern about those who advocate the use of pallet...

As you say, most systems, including mine,have short lengths of flexible plastic pipe connecting machines to the metal ducting. This is kept to a minimum and is of course earthed through the machine and the metal pipes. It does however generate some static, this can be seen in the fact that small...

Retired, you are right and have the knowledge! The phone call you suggest would have been ringing out on my desk a couple of decades back. I've tackled fires in dusts and actually caused them In controlled circumstances. The insurance problem has also been mentioned before. It seems that nothing...

It was MikeK in an early post. In fairness I did Imply that he was a little gullible. It turns out that his shop is in an area where metal ducting is grossly overpriced.

I'm pleased to see that even our politicians are saying something similar now ! I think I will risk a December ( non Christmas) wish. I wish the media would stop reporting and giving unwarranted publicity to members of the lunatic fringe. Those who have invented an axe to grind, or are convinced...

Axi sell plastic fittings for use with drainpipe systems. From what little I've seen they are more expensive than the metal versions.

Terrytpot you have it sorted ! I am amazed that fellow woodworkers will invent excuses and go to lots of trouble to convince themselves that materials designed for drainage are safe and better than the proper ducting. It all joins up easily and has no static problems or need for suspect...

I've had another thought, if there is some of the half inch shaft showing between the cutter and nut , you could use a half inch spanner to take up the slack space and simply unscrew the nut and allow the spanner ( or perhaps two spanners) to push the cutter out.

If you are able to get a spanner under the bit as you say above, then a slide hammer is what you need. That's a bar with claws that go under the shoulders of the bit and a captive weight on the bar to deliver a sharp outward blow to the other end of the bar which has an end that the weight...