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Hard to tell from the picture, but those look like low spots where the oil has pooled. If so, rather more sanding might be needed to get a flat surface. Or, if you're happy not to have a dead flat shiny surface, perhaps apply less oil and wipe off rather earlier. But low spots will inevitably...

I suspect that's because the bridge was glued to the finish, no wood to wood contact. I think it's a thoughtful touch, building in inevitable destruction before anyone's ears suffer permanent damage. BTW, Jenna got her uke just before Christmas and is very happy with it - I've seen a photo...

A little humid, in UK terms, is not a major problem. The top and back will swell a little, if solid wood, but both are slightly domed to allow for this. The action will rise a bit, though. Proper damp = mould and maybe glue failure. Low humidity is what kills guitars. Top and back try to...

Here's me: https://youtu.be/tLrx38AQNTU The instrument is a camp uke I made, so some woodwork was involved.

Glider trailers are often clad with aluminium sheet, widely available, and they sit outside all year round in windy places! Some use fibreglass sheet, but I don't know where they get it. With full patina they're a dull grey, though they start shiny and take a few years to get there. (not me...

The "Making a ukulele" thread (in all its tedious detail) is mine. Acoustic guitar making doesn't require any more tools, though bigger versions might be useful for some elements. The only near-specialist tool needed is a saw whose kerf matches the fretwire tang. A fret rounding file makes...

I fear that your t&g will cup horribly in a bathroom, no matter how much varnish you apply. If you haven't bought it yet, see if you can get an offset and leave it in the bathroom for a couple of days to see what happens. All the t&g I've seen is flat sawn, so I'd be very cautious. If it only...

I think I'd pad the chair instead. Pipe cladding and gaffer tape.

Sorry for the misattribution. I forgot to take WIP pics, but the recipient posted this one elsewhere: (The missing chunk was removed by the Swedish postal service, quite a feat as it was well padded!) You can just about see where I glued in the abutments. It has a toothed veneering blade...

I was going to make a Krenov style plane, but my reading told me that the wedge might not hold the blade as firmly as a traditional style smoother unless I made the more complicated and difficult style with a shaped pin like an aerofoil section. So I copied someone's (I think DW's) compromise...

What Bugbear said! After wet sanding I wipe off the residue and then, when it's dry, buff quickly with a yellow duster. Look at it in a raking light, and any shiny spots are low. If you have enough finish on to sand some more now, without going through, then I'd do that to reduce the work...

Like your thinking, both on the design and the materials. Those are the kind of shelves I'd want. Is 27 mm for the uprights structurally necessary, or for the look of the thing? If the latter, could you use the 20mm stuff for uprights and run a wider moulding down the front of each upright? Or...

I've used a 1.5 inch Forstner in a hand brace, and it takes a fair bit of down pressure to make it cut and a lot of grunt to swing the brace. But at hand brace speeds it shifts quite a lot of wood in each rotation. Sharpening makes a huge difference. Not sure I could hand swing a 4 inch bit...

Bet it's not the last! Two or three coats, lightly sanded, and you can put pretty much anything you like on top. Near-finished surface which might get dirty or needs protection from gentle knocks? Wipe on a couple of coats, they'll sand or scrape off in the final finishing. Trying to get a...

I've been given a slab of Ekki, which my reading tells me is dense with interlocking grain, has mineral deposits which dull tools, and is mostly used for marine applications (the stash of which this is a part came from a canal). It's almost exactly on the quarter and is about the size of half a...

Looked up the data sheet and your plastic reads like it's expensive and very tough. Ivoroid guitar binding is I think celluloid, and should be about £5 for a 5 ft strip, 6 x 1.5 mm. PM me if you need a source, usually cheapest (£2 or so) direct from China if you're not in a hurry.

For plastic binding and stringing on my ukuleles I've tried most of the candidates. The only ones which work reliably are acetone based (Duco, plastic model cement, etc) or the cheapest CA. The acetone ones are horribly sticky, and CA distorts the plastic unless you use it sparingly. I've...

Too late now, but if you'd used the eBay/PayPal dispute system you would have got a refund. I've had to use the system a few times (one fraudster, a few lost in the post items) and it worked every time. Outside the formal systems, you probably won't get a helpful response. It's important to...

I'm looking at some of the 3,000+ (could be twice that) books which infest my house. I think books look lost in 30 cm shelves. To me around 20 cm (book depth plus an inch at the front) is more pleasing. 90 cm might be a fraction wide, leading to sag. My shelves are around 75 cm. I'd use a...

It's OK if you can stop at just one. The problem is when you get obsessed about making a better one (I've stopped counting, but probably 40+ ukuleles now, I clearly need help.)