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I resaw reclaimed timber in that dimension for musical instrument making, though I take much thinner slices. Whether it cups or twists is a bit of a lottery. My guess (and it's only a guess) is that half will be fine, 1/4 will move but you can just plane it to your 3/4 inch thickness, and 1/4...

If any of us club together, or want to buy the surplus from someone's board, well need to divvy it up on site. Does this cut easily, or is it like iron?

Titebond Original has a limited life, from memory about 2 years from manufacture. There is a code on it which can give the date but I always have to look up how to decode it. This is aliphatic resin BTW, not PVA.

I think (wrote this late at night) that I was thinking you'd set a price, and then people would say how many boards they wanted. Highest number would arrive first on the day, pick their boards and go. Then second highest and so on. So you'd get rid of the bulk in a single day. I think all the...

A suggestion (declaration of interest - I'm local (Stowmarket) and would like some bits for guitar and ukulele fingerboards, but that's a fraction of a plank!). I'm not sure that enough people would make the drive for a sale day because they might go home empty handed. So: 1. The large...

Doesn't that depend on how you form the burr? If you stone the sides, the burr points down and so the trailing edge will cut best. If you turn a burr with a burnisher then the trailing edge won't cut at all because the burr is facing backwards - you'd want to use the leading edge then. A...

With a pull saw I find I need to get my head down nearly to the level of the cut (OK enough above so I can see the line on top). Start on the corner nearest me and cut at an angle until I've cut most of the two lines I can see. Then reverse the workpiece so I'm starting at the opposite corner...

Can't help you, but if I might I'd want to know your construction method. A mould for casting concrete is quite a different thing from a mould for laying up composites, for example. And I think the complexity of the shapes will be a big factor in pricing, so I'd be surprised if anyone can give...

When pulling for curves, I pull with one hand either side - the scraper arcs away from me but still cuts well.

On flat surfaces I almost always push. For the curves on ukulele or guitar neck, push or pull as is most convenient (this can be dictated by grain direction and ease of clamping the shaped workpiece).

I'd say those are wooden no. 80 equivalents. The blade is flat like a scraper, and is at near enough 90 degrees to the sole. Try one out. True up and sharpen the blade, reinsert it from the base of the tool (so as not to damage the cutting edge), set it so it doesn't protrude at all and try it...

Clothing and shoes are interesting. As I understand it, it was only in the mid/late 19C that poorer British people ever had clothes that fit. This was because of mass manufacturing. Previously all clothes were made by hand, so they cost many times as much. Poor people wore second hand clothes...

A couple of wiped on coats of shellac helps when I'm cutting binding channels on musical instruments. It only penetrates a fraction of a mm but seems enough to keep the surface intact, and thus resist splintering below the surface. I only use hand tools, but luthiers with powered routers have...

Yup, lacewing. Their larvae eat other insects, adults mainly nectar etc.

Custard, can I ask what you think of the results when using HHG for pore filling. I tried it once and thought the look very dull, but I was utter rubbish at finishing then (as opposed to just mediocre now). Of course, I know I'll have try on scrap, but any thoughts in advance might help me.

I'd say that *if* this box top is subject to big humidity swings, then there is a good chance that it will curl up or down (the longitudinal axis of the curl will be along the grain direction of the wide parts). If the substrate it's glued to is something like plywood then it will resist that...

Violins are designed for regular repair, and HHG makes repair easy as the fresh glue reactivates the old. With any other glue the old glue has to be removed, which is hard for the more complex joints. Guitars have a shorter life because the design means they tend to collapse gradually into the...

You are very kind, but the luthier edge jointing is not as hard as you'd think. This is because further thicknessing takes place after jointing, down to around 2mm or less, so I don't need perfect mating in the narrow dimension. The important thing is to get the boards closeish along the joint...

You're edge gluing, right? Not laminating in the sense of doubling/trebling the thickness? This is a standard process for making guitars, ukuleles etc. There we work with 4mm or even 3mm boards. My process is as follows: 1. Thickness your boards until they are maybe 1mm thicker than your...

The clockmakers site I found says that no 2 screw heads are 4mm, no 3 are 4.5mm and no 4 are 5mm. Otherwise, below that I can only find steel pozi/Philips screws. Maybe measure one of your remaining screws to be certain? Try model making and clockmaking suppliers - the former came good for the...