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I had a kid's carpentry set when I was very young. No idea how the saw was filed - from memory "non-cutting", as I never managed more than shallow scrapes in the wood. Maybe 18 ins long, and not a backsaw. Not really a saw at all, to be honest :D

Lots on eBay, but you are looking at over £60 per leg!

I wouldn't mention s 75 of the Consumer Credit Act as this only applies to credit cards. The magic words are "unauthorised transaction" and "outside my mandate". In other words, the bank has no right to debit your account unless you authorised it. This makes it the bank's problem, not...

I'd say your worry is humidity changes. I ran the calculations here for 1.2m of big leaf maple and got a width difference if the air humidity swings from 40% to 70% of between 9 and 17mm, depending on the cut. http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/shrinkulator/ You'd certainly want to glue to the...

I checked back and you've been paid, so that's a relief! Don't worry about the photos as I'm confident you'll face no legal action. First because I can't think of any legal basis for a claim (this is 40+ years as a law prof talking, though I suppose there might be unusual facts here which could...

As a statement of law this is incorrect. You have no right to take the photos, but the property owner has no right to object (with some exceptions, such as you agreed not to take photos as a condition of access). Commercial photographing is no different (unless you're photographing copyright...

Ah no, just looked at the first picture again and I see it's 150 mm wide where it joins. But I'm still scared!

I can't tell you if it would work, but I wouldn't want to step on it. My mental arithmetic tells me that each step is only 40 mm wide where it joins the pole. Even if you hand me calculations to show it'll take my weight, my hindbrain says it's far too skinny in 25mm ply for me to trust. At...

4mm brass tubing from a modelmaking shop has a 3mm internal diameter. You could just glue some in as a bushing.

I get a decent surface with a hand plane on sapele, though planing can sometimes produce a little tearout without using a close set cap iron. One way to get nice even strips is to take a piece of flat board, say MDF, and glue 6mm thick strips of wood or plastic either side of the piece you are...

Yes, very helpful thanks. Pretty sure now it's one of the cedrela species, end grain is very similar (or would be if my block plane didn't need sharpening), so I'll call it Spanish Cedar unless someone gives me reason to think otherwise.

Forgot to add that the Spanish Cedar I had previously was fairy recently cut, and was a distinct pink. This is much more of a pale orange in colour, not far off the colour in the pictures.

This was the door frame from a mahogany wardrobe (all the rest of the wood is, I'm pretty sure, Honduras mahogany), date around 1870-1915 at a guess from the style. It's being made into a ukulele neck. But it's very obviously not the same wood as the rest of the carcass, even though it looks...

Two minutes web searching found me this: http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/han ... _117.shtml It seems fairly simple to do, and I'd guess eBay can get you the asphaltum. No promises though, particularly that it won't explode, catch fire or poison you!

All I know is fretted instruments like guitars, but from that two things: 1. The reduction in humidity caused movement is real, known as hysteresis. What's not known is whether it's a function of pure age, or whether it requires repeated shrinkage and expansion cycles. All long seasoning seems...

If you want a high gloss finish, then you can leave the finish to harden for at least a week, wet sand level, and then sand through increasingly fine grits to at least P100, followed by some polishing compound like T Cut or Autosol. The properly flat finish is what is most important. For satin...

I like the boards too. I think the problem is that you're thinking what you'd like to make, and then trying to persuade those boards to fit in with that plan. Why not turn it around? Look at the boards and ask yourself what they would like to be turned into. And don't forget that (with a lot...

You have two considerations: Strength against bending forces. Those are weak end-to-end joints, but a scarfed joint would likely be strong enough, particularly with the overlaps staggered. Appearance. This one is up to you, maybe make a test joint, finish it and then see how you feel about the...

If this is a resonance problem you can check it out as we do in instrument building. Your workbench top is the resonating part, and if you add weight to it at a particular point you will change its resonant frequency. Obviously you'll need quite a bit of weight, a few grams won't do it. But...

Osvaldd, your first picture might work, your second one almost certainly wouldn't. To make a design, you need to understand why, so apologies for the lecturing tone (professional hazard :) ). 1. All wood moves around as the humidity in the air changes, and it always changes except in an...