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Looks like a good tip. And if it doesn't fix the problem, you won't have put marks on the saw if you need to send it back.

I've used Tru-Oil a lot for musical instruments. Easily available online, usually via eBay. I recommend the smallest possible bottle, unless you are planning to build more in the near future. After a few months open it thickens and tends not to cure properly.

If it's a standard woodworking glue like PVA or Titebond Original (which I think is an aliphatic resin, and is yellow), that doesn't need a huge amount of heat to soften. So a hair drier will gently heat it - stop when it's uncomfortably hot to handle and you think the heat has soaked right...

My scrub is an old ECE wooden smoother whose mouth was worn away. It's the perfect length, and works really well unless I set the cut too deep. Mind you, even a shallow cut takes off a lot of wood!

I have no practical experience in this field, but thinking about the forces on an oar, this is what I'd consider. I'd laminate the oar along its length from two pieces, each spliced to extend to the full length. I'd glue up the laminate with the splices staggered. Then I'd orientate the shaft...

I have bent 3.6 mm plywood (not birch, the cheap poplar stuff) to make a guitar case. Dry heat is what works. For my tight curves I had to bend round a hot pipe. But for shields, clamp into your curve (ideally a bit tighter) and heat with a heat gun. You want the wood "Ouch" hot to touch...

I think it depends hugely on what you make! I make mainly ukuleles so my list is very different. In no particular order: Pencil Steel rule Scalpel Marking gauge 1/4 inch chisel Japanese pull saw Veritas apron block plane (brilliant piece of kit!) Cabinet scraper Hot hide glue pot and brush...

I think I might just have recorded something that qualifies as "beyond the pale" - a Merle Haggard country music standard, sung by an English bloke in the wrong accent, using the wrong kinds of banjo and guitar. But it was fun doing it, and I can confirm that a banjo is one of the most...

Bear in mind this could be work flying, if there's a maintenance and repair facility there or if the aircraft is e.g. surveying. My gliding club is closed because that's just fun flying, and the aviation forums I frequent show no-one I can recall who is flying for fun.

That looks like a technique used by musical instrument builders to accentuate the grain. In simple terms, you apply a dark stain or dye to the wood (how many coats depends on how dark you want it, that particular species of wood, etc). Once fully dry, you sand back the surface. End grain (like...

Hmm, hard to explain to a beginner. Once you've seen lots of veneered pieces you get an idea just from photos. The best test is to look where you would expect end grain - probably the tops and bottoms of doors, back and sides. If you don't see any, that piece is veneered. Or you see end grain...

The various mahoganoids are hard to beat for comparative ease of working. But I'd avoid sapele - the interlocking ribbon grain can be hard work to plane and scrape smooth. In normal times I'd say to find an old wardrobe and break that down - my current Victorian wardrobe is full of easy-working...

About half those in New York, where they don't have enough IC beds and respirators. That hugely increases the death rate.

I see we have a lot of discussion about deterrent punishments. Although those of us who don't commit crimes think that punishments must deter criminals, all the evidence from research (and there is quite a lot of it) shows that criminal sanctions don't deter people from committing crimes. This...

Lots of good advice about sawing. I won't add to it. But I wanted to encourage you by saying that the skill comes with practice. I was rubbish at sawing straight lines when I started, I'm generally pretty good now. But that's quite a few hours of sawing. And dovetails?? Easy if you've done...

Post a picture because mahogany is very variable. You'll want if possible to match both colour and grain orientation. I'd guess you want to make look like it wasn't damaged, so far as you can. I might have some scraps to suit.

Or a scraper plane (or cabinet scraper, preferably using a holder for such a large job).

I was in my local Co-Op yesterday and someone was shopping for herself and a neighbour. No problem with limits - the staff were trusting (and to be honest, recognised most customers as regulars anyway). I guess a big chain supermarket might be less so, but in my local Asda I'm recognised. Small...

I'd be surprised if anyone in a rural area, unless they are in a really remote place, has a problem finding someone to shop for them. In my local area (two villages with a total of maybe 70 houses) we immediately set up phone numbers to call, all of us who weren't isolated volunteered, and those...

In some posters I detect the old "manufacturing good, services bad" fallacy. Services is not a zero sum game. Just as an example, I work on one of the world's most successful (in my own estimation :D ) postgraduate teaching programmes. I and colleagues work on other things as well, so I...