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Screws from underneath is the way to go - perfectly strong enough, you only want to stop the top sliding off the frame. As you're new to this, the size of hole you want to drill is (roughly) the diameter of the solid part of the screw (ignoring the threads). Hold the screw and drill bit up to...

The Veritas apron block plane is a super thing. Maybe 2/3 length/height/width of a standard block plane, and a pleasure to use. Feels about half the weight. I make mainly ukuleles, and it gets a lot of action including helping to flatten sides especially, which might be 60mm wide or less. I've...

I've clamped a tenon saw to a piece of wood (the wood acts as a fence) with a spacer between the saw and the fence. If you start the kerf cut very slowly and carefully (it tends to jump/skip) this can work. But warning - if your board is not perfectly straight then you can end up with a curved...

Two more tips: 1. The cut along the end grain must be straight, or your rip saw can wander or bind. I use a tenon saw to cut that first. 2. If you can run a 1/4 inch deep saw kerf along the line either side, that helps keep your rip saw in line. And you can do the main cut with a panel saw...

A Stanley no. 6 plane should fetch £60+ on eBay if in good condition. I suspected you might have more value in the hand tools than you would have thought.

There is a simple answer! The woodworker brews up a batch at home until the smell is just right, then freezes it. Thawed and heated at the show, it should release the desired (!) aroma and produce the intended atmosphere.

I use pearl glue for musical instruments and regularly top up the pot if needed. But, as already said, it's important to switch to a fresh batch regularly - I might run a batch for 3 days. But if I have, say, week-old glue and something non-structural to glue up, I might still use it - if it...

Sounds like it's not a problem here, but most common epoxies soften enough to prise a joint apart at 45C or so. I've done this (cleanup is no fun). Maybe automotive epoxies like JBWeld are ok at high temperatures.

If he had a stock of cabinet making wood it might be rather valuable. I just checked on eBay, and the asking price for an Indian Rosewood board 1.5m x 125mm x 33mm is £124. You really need someone knowledgeable to look that over and at least estimate what you have there. Is there a forum...

Not if you're going to make guitars again! Then you'll want at least two tenon saws, a longer coarser one for cross cutting larger boards close to final length, and a shorter finer one for delicate work (this could also be your fret cutting saw). I use three backsaws (short, medium and long...

Plastic wrap and sealing the end grain are to slow down the drying from freshly cut, and so reduce the risk of checks and splits. That wouldn't help you. Initial drying from cutting down the tree is said to take an inch per year, so your wood should be at equilibrium with its environment. But...

This is what I guess you want to do (a picture would have helped lots!): 1. You have boxwood logs cut 30 years ago which have split lengthwise. 2. You want to cut along the split, plane each side to a good surface, glue them together, and then turn a drawknife handle. Yes? If so, it might...

With hand tools I find it's a mix of practice and technique. I bought a very cheap set of engineer's squares in a wooden box (£20 or less) and they're vastly better than my woodworking square, which isn't very square. For a precise cut, I'll knife the line using a square, then use a chisel 9...

I regularly resaw to around 4mm, to end up with 2mm boards for instruments. Because they are so thin I can cope with a certain amount of non-flatness, but ideally they'll end up flat. 24 hours or so will see most of the movement, but not all, so in your situation I'd plane the boards to remove...

I had the same thought, and if the stickers were in the same position both sides ... Have you tried planing to see if it disappears?

Yew can be a right ******! The first time I used it I got slightly wheezy with an itchy face. The last (ever) time I went to A&E with breathing problems. Sad, as it's lovely stuff. OTOH, some people never experience problems with it. All wood dust is a potential sensitiser, so a good dust mask...

Ah, laminated edge to edge! This is trickier. I tried this with some ukulele sides, and they came apart during the bending. This is what I suggest if you try the heat gun, recognising that it might fail. Work on one section at a time. If the bend behind the knees want to be tighter, start with...

I bend guitar sides. I don't think a heat blanket will help. Your chair is much, much thicker than a guitar side. However, although PVA softens with heat, it hardens again when it cools. It loses some strength, but it might still hold well enough to keep your laminations together. The risk...

I make mainly ukuleles, so small work too. I began with a No 3, but since acquiring a decent No 4 I hardly ever use the No 3. As someone else posted, the toe is a little short to register cleanly on the workpiece. A No 5 would definitely be a little big for what I do. I also make a lot of use...

Heat (a heat gun means you can do this on a cloudy day) and what Stanley calls a filling knife (handle, fan-shaped blade, push it away from you) might shift most of the glue. If it softens with heat, which most (but not all) glues do.