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I'm guessing this is an electric guitar? I made a nice acoustic ukulele from oak, and will probably make a guitar one day, but the painting etc says electric to me. Oak has huge pores, and any filler will shrink, so you will need several applications. Sand back after each one is dry and has...

This is shellac polished up with T-Cut. This was a few years ago, I can get a little shinier now using the same method.

100g will have made a big blob, which will be slow to dissolve. Give it a good stir to break up the blob, then leave it a few hours longer. Like Bob I'm dissolving a few grams each time, thus small blobs and quicker dissolving. If it's any help, around 10g of shellac will put a dozen coats on...

I obtain inexpensive mahogany from old wardrobes :eek:

I stop when it's flat "enough". If it needs to look flat, then the test is by eye, naturally. If it needs to fit against something else, then both are flat enough when they fit well enough. And that second "enough" varies too - joining a guitar top or back, I'm looking for no visible light in...

I have a Quangsheng low angle Jack plane. For a month or so I loved it, and then found I rarely used it. Don't think I've bothered with it in the last two years. Looking back, it's not that good as a smoother, and not good at heavy cuts. I should probably make a shooting board forvit and...

This is mahogany and maple with blonde shellac finish. The picture ws taken a couple of weeks after applying the finish, so I don't know how much UV light would darken the wood over time. But if your maple hasn't been exposed to much light, I doubt you used blonde shellac.

We have to be careful with statistics like these, which means knowing what the calculator of the statistic means by, in this case, "effective". I think it means, roughly, "effective in reducing the risk of infection taking hold to whatever this vaccine achieves." So if the Oxford vaccine...

A coat or two of shellac, sanded back to smooth once dry, should help reduce the blotchiness with is cause by pine taking up more stain on some places than others. Be aware that your final colour depends on a combination of the stain and the wood to which it is applied - it probably won't look...

Worth a try with luthiers. I'd have expressed interest if I weren't in Suffolk. Hmm, I know a Bristol based luthier - I'll point him at this thread.

Unexpectedly, that would have done no good! Check out the final programme in BBC Radio 4's series "More or Less", which reports on research which indicates that almost every source of infection was from Italy, Spain or France. I can see an argument, at the time, that all foreign arrivals should...

If you dont plan to keep them, I own a plough plane with only one cutter (1/4 inch I think, maybe 3/8) so could use more irons. PM me if interested and we'll work out a fair price.

The stiffness of a board along the grain is several times its stiffness across the grain. You don't notice this in thick boards much, but thinned to musical instrument thickness the difference is quite dramatic - under gentle finger pressure the board will deflect maybe 3x as much cross grain as...

So the whip was still in its usual drawer? What a relief!

Before anyone gets frightened, this is the interface for tracker apps, not a tracker app. It does nothing unless you (voluntarily) download a tracker app. The UK app (world-beating, natch) is a fraction delayed, I wouldn't worry until the Autumn. Or later.

I do this kind of thing when making ukulele sides (though mine will be around 70mm wide). I'm planing down to around 1.8mm, where the wood becomes really flexible. The best way I've found is to take a piece of melamine faced chipboard (standard shelf material) and glue two guide strips on it...

I haven't (yet) said "don't do it (at least in solid wood)", but I would do so. The reasons are (a) that if in solid wood, all the joints are end grain to end grain and so very weak, and (b) the way each triangular part will expand and contract with humidity changes will surely pull the thing...

If you want a solid wood top to stay flat, I'd have thought you need to choose all vertical grain timber. That will expand and contract width ways (are you allowing for that) but not cup (much). Could be more expensive, worth checking of you can source that within your budget.

I believe White Spirit is fairly heavy naphtha (lighter fluid is the lighter version), both should dissolve wax. If you're refinishing, applying with wire wool should get it to the bottom of the wax layer quite fast. You might need a couple of applications to get rid of it all.

Building strength is worthwhile anyway (unless that would worsen the joint physically, thus the need for a diagnosis). My hip began to give me grief a year back, though not severely, so I tried some gentle exercises to strengthen the core and leg muscles. I was shocked how weak my muscles had...