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Any help? A board with sandpaper glued to it, used held horizontal, gets the sides even with each other.

I plane and sand a curve from neck block to tail block, and then glue in arched back braces. The back will bend down nicely over these to give a dome (of sorts). Note that you need a recurve at the end of the braces, as on a violin or mandolin, to get a neat joint where braces, side and back...

I'd splice a piece of matching oak in, angled at the ends. Like this, with shallower slopes at the ends: \_______/ To get a match you could cut that from the rear side and patch the cutout with a less good match from another piece of oak.

Agreed. English grown oak tends not to be tall and straight, whilst oaks from Continental forests were and are. English hedgerow oak was in demand for shipbuilding because of the crooked timbers for stem, stern etc. Oaks from woods were mainly used for house frames. Oliver Rackham's History of...

I'd try what I did recently on my double bass - splice a strip of maple in, buy some water colour paints, make the best match I could and then finish over the top. Strip first of course. I wasn't too fussy, as the bass has had a hard life and I plan to redo the repair in a year or so. You need...

I think I get it from your description, but just to check - the only connection between the comb mechanism and the board is metal posts and woodscrews? If so, it's not a soundboard, which takes vibration and turns it into sound. Instead, I think it works like a banjo resonator - sound waves...

I find old CA glue goes gummy and doesn't set, so I'd say just age.

This is from the Repair Cafe Foundation: In the place where a Repair Café is located, you’ll find tools and materials to help you make any repairs you need. On clothes, furniture, electrical appliances, bicycles, crockery, appliances, toys, et cetera. You’ll also find expert volunteers, with...

Poplar? Soft and bland. Matching the effects of age, stripped varnish and sun will be the challenge!

Naphtha (aka White Spirit or, faster acting, lighter fluid) is a good solvent for wax and is safe for most other finishes. I'd see if it removes a patch, and that would show me the condition of the original finish.

If you're planning fretboards then you want vertical grain. So splitting into wedges would be the easiest way to achieve that - you want to lose the pith in the middle anyway. I've read that apple can be quite unstable, so it would be worth observing how much each board moves before glueing it...

The level of quality required is the same for both consumer and business sales. The main differences are: in a B2B sale some rights can be limited ir excluded if doing so is reasonable (consumer rights can't be excluded at all) consumers have longer to complain about defects than businesses...

Is the item slightly rough to the touch? Danish oil can raise the tiny fibres left by sanding. If so, very lightly dust off the roughness with a scotch pad or fine abrasive. Then apply another coat or two. You won't get a shine if it's not smooth.

How about this as an approach, dealing with the (I'm sure correct) information about pressure and also your deep fears of a watery apocalypse: Flush toilet Open one or more taps Open stopcock fully. If the kitchen tap is open, you'd see if flow suddenly increased. The pressure information...

I thought everyone knew that you place the blade under a pyramid at new moon so that the etheric vibrations can reshape the edge to ultimate sharpness. Blade angle is determined by orientation to the applicable holy city (see manual, terms and conditions apply).

It looks as if almost all the finish has been absorbed, leaving nothing on the surface. Find an inconspicuous spot and apply a couple more thin coats. I googled polyx gloss images, and the floors in those are definitely shiny!

From my instrument finishing experience (though none with Osmo) I'd say you need more than one coat to get a gloss finish. Everything I've used (shellac, nitro lacquer, oil varnish, TruOil) gives at best a matt sheen with just a single coat. If you inspect the surface closely you'll see that...

Ah, that helps. And I'm assuming the curvature was still there when you glued up the box? If so, unlikely to be a humidity shrinkage issue unless it's in the UK equivalent of a desert (eg central heating set really high). In that case, get inside with a light and inspection mirror (or a phone...

Don't waste your time trying to restore the doming to the top. You locked in the geometry when you glued on the bracing, and more so when you closed the box of the body. The top will expand widthways in higher humidity and some dome will come back. It will shrink with lower humidity - worst case...

What thickness? Guitar wood usually comes at around 6 mm rough sawn, to be planed down to 2.5mm or so. For thicker boards you might contact Thorogoods, just N of Clochester so fairly close to you. I'm sure they sell spruce. You'll want to pick through their stock, which is what you have to ask...