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Ah, I see... I may stick to a shooting board for endgrain.... fingers are just too darn useful!

Glad to hear that you didn't lose any fingers in your accident. However, to make sure I can learn from your mistake, could you please clarify what you did? You said: " A while ago I was running some end grain boards through the thicknesser taking of 0.3mm ish at a time, something I do often and...

I don't know anything about ACF-50; maybe it is excellent at preventing rust. However, I get very suspicious when I read advertising claims like "it kills rust" and "it neutralises salt". Rust is not alive and so cannot be killed. Salt can not be neutralised as it is neither acidic or alkaline...

Oh my! I'm jealous of all that space :) I'm just about to set up my workshop in a small one car garage, once the roof has been replaced. I'll make a 2.4 x 2.4m shed on the back for some extra storage. Maybe I should move to a country where land is cheaper... or just win the lottery! Hmmm, I'll...

I just checked the timbercut4u uk website and american cherry is about half the price of american black walnut

Sounds like you've got some interesting grain patterns going on. Maybe scraping with a cabinet (or card) scraper would help in the tough areas. As to the colour, I'm a bit of a purist here and I don't like the idea of artificially colouring wood much; if wood has a light colour, then enjoy it...

LOL... embroidered panels...:sick: indeed Some timbers darken considerably over time with exposure to air, but I don't know about ash

@Austin the grain does look a bit like Ramin, but I've never seen Ramin that dark. Can Ramin be dark brown?

Looks quite like a piece of African Mahogany, but that's also only a guess. (Khaya species)

The attitude of the staff as you describe it makes this sound exactly like the place NOT to buy your timber. Thanks for the heads up. I wonder if the owners realise the effect of such comments on their sales? Hey ho... on to the next timber merchant.

Indeed, I have read about that technique for sharpening the blades in situ. However, that must introduce a secondary bevel similar to what you might put on a chisel blade. Then as you say, the cutting angle would change, becoming greater, if I have understood the geometry correctly.

Thanks! The article (https://www.peterseftonfurnitureschool.com/media/1179/peterseftonmakingthemostofyourplanerarticle.pdf) is very interesting. Peter's suggestion of using a small "front bevel" on the planer blade effectively reduces the angle of the main bevel (makes it less pointy) with...

I have a question relating to planer-thicknesser blades and cutting angles. Various text books advise a "reduced cutting angle" when cutting hardwoods and especially "difficult hardwoods". However, I understood that the cutting angle of a planer-thicknesser blade is fixed by the slot in the...