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@ Lefley: "Wood ****..." :sneaky: Here are some bits I have cut from logs recently. Only problem now is that I have to wait for them to dry!

Whilst I would love to have a bandsaw big enough to take a 1 inch or bigger blade (and to space to house it), I must disagree about needing a 1 inch blade for ripping and resawing accurately. Naturally, we can discuss how straight is "straight enough" and how fast is "fast enough" but I get by...

That is a tight space. You are probably going to be restricted to a benchtop table saw or bandsaw rather than a floor-standing model. Just for your info, the Record Power Sabre 350 on a wheelbase needs just under 195cm height clearance and has a footprint of about 700x500mm excluding the...

Jacob is right; if you are only ripping 50mm thick material then a decent table saw is a better investment than a cheap bandsaw. A cheap bandsaw might be useful for small work with curved cuts. The Record Power Sabre 350 band saw has been mentioned above. Whilst this has some irritations not...

I don't know what species your flooring is (I would only be guessing), however, they do look pretty when finished.

@ Tris: Indeed the bark is similar to cherry but to be honest the colour of the bark is most similar to the plum tree we have in the garden rather than the cherry tree. No real almond smell to the unidentified species wood when cut, though it does have a smell (difficult to describe unknown...

Apologies for mangling a line from that old time classic "Lolipop lolipop" by the Chordettes. I bought two lots of wood recently, both sold as laburnum. I've never bought laburnum before and wanted to make some small boxes from it. One lot clearly is laburnum (laburnum anagyroides, I reckon). It...

Sounds highly unlikely to me. There are two ways to prevent microorganisms, insects or other critters causing damage to wood. You can physically block them; paint, varnish etc work that way. Or you can introduce a compound which is unpleasant (almost always toxic) to them. This is the way trees...

Depending on your budget and how much you don't want to treat and retreat your timber, you may also try hardwood sleepers. If you're planning on moving house in 5 years time then the cheap option may be best. However, if you're in for the long haul, then there are several tropical or...

The chainsaw mill looks great and probably fairly cheap to make. On the other hand how much does the kit cost for moving and transporting huge logs like that?

This is not a master work by any means, but it is a way of putting some offcuts to good use. If you have a wife/mother/grandmother/sister/aunt/girlfriend who makes crochet squares for blankets etc, they may appreciate something like this. Just an idea, anyway. Yes I am being sexist, but I'd bet...

Like the spice rack. Practical, beautiful and well made. Nice. :)

LOL Sure, but you may not like my rates :)

I love chess boards. Yours is very nicely made; no gaps or misalignments. I made one ...oh decades ago... when I was at school. I've been planning to make one using a bit of ebony I acquired a few years ago (about 22 years ago if memory serves; should be well seasoned by now :) ). I just have to...

Hi all, I made myself a Moxon vice to make dovetailing easier. My workbench only has an end vice which makes things a bit awkward and would be difficult with the 300mm wide boards I'm going to be using for a shelving/bookcase project. I went for a two tone look, partly for the cool appearance...

.... and don't forget you can make quite a sum of money by selling all the nails to a scrap merchant! :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

The phrase "You're paying for the label." Is the issue here. Emblazoning an item with a highly visible brand mark is marketing pure and simple. It appeals to those looking for a status symbol; "Look at my expensive *******; arn't I cool/rich/whatever. " As Ollie78 pointed out, you won't find a...

I have some clear epoxy, so I guess I'll give it a go. The finish will indeed be transparent to show the spalting (panels on the lid of the box). The timber is currently in a shed which I keep at 50 to 60% RH which is pretty similar to the house, so I should be OK there.

Right, good point; I did wonder about that. I see some cracks in the wood as it has dried (seasoned). I guess I can expect that the cracks may worsen. This may change my plan to fill any cracks with epoxy as this will have no significant flexibility. Any suggestions for an alternative filler? Or...

I have a bit of spalted European ash which I will use in a small box project. Does anyone know if spalting affects how much timber moves in service (normal shrinkage and expansion due to environmental/seasonal changes, indoors, UK). This could be a case of "How long is a piece of string?", but I...