Search results

Almost finished this. More of a prototype than anything with some left over spruce. It’s pretty horrible but I learnt a lot. I kept the top of the legs square to try and make the joinery easier and used a rasp to shape. It didn’t go well and clamping was a mare. I think I’ll go round all the...

Hello! I’m using Liberon Quick Dry Tung oil and never seem to get a smooth finish. I’m following the manufacturers instructions and using 0000 steel wool lightly between coats but I can feel little bumps when all said and done. I started by using sponges but felt that was putting too much on...

Yep and yep

Hello, I've got myself a planner/thicknesser (the AH106PT from Axminster), its second hand but really light use (and only a few years old). I think its setup correctly, the beds are level when adjusted to "0" and look coplanner to me and my straight edge. Blades are reasonable and setup OK...

I read how a few hours in a badly designed dust extraction/filtration environment (ie my shed) can be more damaging than months in a pro shop. I choose HEPA and an Axminster filter as I got scared reading how it’s the real small particals that do the damage (invisible) and regular shopvacs are...

Quick update whilst I source a clock/mag it stand. I bought a cheap Roslon pulley which meant I could get the motor pulley off and clean the rust on the shaft to be able to align the pulleys again. That side of the bearings actually seem to move a little so it makes sense to me that there was...

Thanks, I’m going to buy a few bits (a puller and some sort of clock which may take longer to source) and regroup. Thanks for all the help, will come back when parts and tools have arrived and I’ve either made progress or made a mess of things. I’m keen to measure the run out and potentiometer...

Ps just how gently is “gently”? I bored a hole in a block of wood so I could get somewhat even “knocking force” and tapped with a pin hammer and apart from shaking more saw dust out, not much movement. Should I get a bigger hammer!?

Having said all that, I popped the motor off after all (and without and tears or swear words). There’s a grub screw on one pulley and a woodruff key so I’ll have a play and see if they can be moved in closer to the body. Can believe how heavy the motor is!

Thanks for the tips. I’m constantly debating whether I’m taking on too much with this saw. I’m mechanically minded but as the old adage goes, you don’t know what you don’t know. It’s enjoyable learning (and I like refurbishing old hand tools) and I tend to be cautious (hence the silly...

Top off, belt off (after some head scratching, I tilted the saw and discovered the allen bolts were imperial after all!). I rotated the motor as described and there wasn't much slack in the belts so positioned it about mid-way then 'tracked' the belts off the pulleys. Can't detect any wobble on...

Will do, thanks again. Out of interest (and to line up if needed) where do I go for belts and replacement bearings? Ttfn

Thanks for the reply. I used a combination square in both slots just kissing a tooth, then rotated the tooth. Working front the back (as you face the saw). I was waiting for a new blade to ensure the old blade wasn’t also in the mix. It’s about 1mm (to the eye), I haven’t figure a way to...

Im in a similar bind to @guineafowl21 fetling to try and get the blade aligned to the mitre slots. I get it aligned with just one pin in (RH) but when the other pin goes in, it takes it out again! Can you elaborate what you meant by the hand wheel @deema pls? and the L brackets? I could see...

Cheers, Im certainly going to be using a riving knife (it’s in the middle of the return/making parts I need for this Frankenstein) and a crown guard if I can find a decent after market one.

Thanks for the tips. I had the lid off and cleaned everything up. Found more oddities(?) like the bolts holding the top on we’re WW (that took some figuring out and some hit and miss purchasing 5/16” to 1/4” sockets to fit - damn you 13.335mm AF nuts!). I freed the pin but had most success...

I have a Startrite 165 and when refurbishing the original fence, I noticed the following in the manual: “It should be noted that whilst a long fence is useful in guiding sheets, for rip sawing, the fence should finish level with the commencement of the cut. Therefore, a wooden facing is fitted...

Thanks, by way of an update, I’ve taken the top off(!) and am taking a closer look… (I’ve got it chocked you from underneath but will use the strap idea)

Quick follow up: I assume I’ll be able to tap the pins back from the underside, or will I need to get new pins? The holes look to be 6-6.3mm. thanks again

Thanks! To check then, the screw is likely stuck in the “in” position and needs to pop out with the tilt (not with a screw driver)? I think I’m going to have to take the top off (which I’ve been avoiding, in order to do all that!) Ps: is a silicon lube (wd40”specialist”) ok for the job? Same...