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Seems a bit of a theme at the moment, but I'm embarking on building my own kitchen. In one corner, we're planning a "pull and swing" type corner unit. Having looked around at what is commercially available, I'm not impressed (variously they seem flimsy, space inefficient and not rated to a very...

Your suggestion of a 3hp extractor with some fine filtration is a good one for most stationary machines unless you have something really big and/or want to operate multiple machines at once. Also, the extractors you have linked to all have two large area pleated filters - good for fine dust...

I use a DX4000 with a similar 10" P/T. It does the job - it depends what other tools you want to use it with as well. The multi-motor vacuum extractors offer good filtration, but they are noisy, have low airflow for most machines but will overheat if used with a lot of power tools because the...

Cable sizing depends on maximum current and permissible voltage drop - this is why long runs to outbuildings sometimes need larger cable sizes than you might expect from a current carrying perspective. TLC have a handy calculator to do the work for you: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/...

No flattening activities, it was flat as it came. It's screwed tightly onto the aluminium profile which comes very straight, I think that holds it nicely. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

The dust collection cabinet is a bit of a temporary hack as long term I want to build a proper cabinet under the table to store bits in etc, so please don't judge me - images as requested for illustration only! This is my table. It's a piece of 6mm steel plate which replaced the sheet steel...

Yep. I built mine after seeing the Incra CleanSweep system. My setup consists of a custom router plate with a 110mm diameter recess 3mm deep, and a 90mm diameter hole through the insert plate to accommodate a large panel raiser if I ever want to use one. I've made my own insert rings out of 3mm...

Most multi-meters are rated for very low currents. I would suggest using one of those power plug meters for monitoring energy consumption as the best way to test. I have a spreadsheet somewhere for approximately calculating power requirements for impellers (downloaded from woodgears and...

I expect it's the same or similar blower to this then: http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.a ... uctid=8088 (250mm diameter). Their stated maximum flow rate of 618cfm seems believable, at about 2/3rds the theoretical maximum for an impeller of that diameter and power. So based on those specs...

Nice job you've made of that. I'd be interested in your critical dimensions (separator diameter and height) and what blower you're using, preferably with power and impeller dimensions. I make that an airflow of 565m3/hr. Does your anemometer also give you the ability to measure local static...

Nice job you've made of that. I'd be interested in your critical dimensions (separator diameter and height) and what blower you're using, preferably with power and impeller dimensions. I make that an airflow of 565m3/hr. Does your anemometer also give you the ability to measure local static...

Thanks all - sliding dovetails it is!

Thanks for the responses, I think I will go sliding dovetail then. My concern with the pegged tenon method (which I think is used traditionally) is that it doesn't offer any mechanical locking to pull the joint tight unless you offset the holes in the mortise and tenon - it all sounds a bit of a...

I'm gearing up to build and fit a new kitchen. I've bought some full stave worktops (40mm thick, 80mm staves, 620mm wide) from Worktop Express which I think should look the business; when I went to visit their showroom I was quite taken with the way they had fitted the worktops around cookers...

Personally I reckon the screw advance box joint jig (see woodgears.ca) is hands-down the best way to cut box joints. The problem with using a router is the bits - box joints need to be cut to the same height as the thickness of the workpiece. So for anything but really thin material, you are...

Adding my voice of appreciation to this very informative guide, thanks Custard. Some great advice in this. I quickly found the best way to buy what I needed when self-selecting was to go armed with my full cut list ordered from longest/widest timbers first and also sorted by thickness. I then...

The power limit of all the auto-switching extractors I've seen is essentially governed by the 13A limit of a mains plug, so you only get more power for the switching socket if you have less power draw on the extractor motors. You can get a bit more power if you use a separate switching unit...

I bought this jig too, and have no complaints about the jig itself. However, I don't like the need to move the router inside the template with the guide bush, since any debris will cause the hole to be under-sized. As a result, I found I had to test each hole individually and re-cut whilst also...

Fans in series give you increased pressure drop, fans in parallel increase flow rate. Unless you have a very restrictive ducting set-up (and if you do, I would advise sorting that first) I would suggest it better to connect two blowers after the Thien baffle in parallel, thus increasing your...

Here's one wot I made: bench-top-router-table-t66404.html This was my first router table, before I built a much bigger one into my Table Saw. I must confess I don't use it much anymore since I have a bigger router and the Incra fence on my bigger table, but I do use it from time to time when I...