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Regarding dust extraction, I have found also that there is some dust below the saw, but my collector does do a good job of catching most of it. If you look at the 4th picture in my first post, you will see the shroud that fits around the saw carriage and the 100mm extraction hose connected to it...

For around that sort of money, for a permanent table mounting, I'd definitely be on the lookout for a Triton TRA001 (2000W) or MOF001 (1400W). Both have coarse and fine height winders and above-table bit changing with an automatic spindle lock when the full depth plunge is reached. The MOF001...

I've stumbled across their site before, all looks very tempting as a "one day when I have the time" idea. Also check out http://www.cncroutersource.com/ for another good source of info, although it's not a complete site yet. There are a few sites out there selling plans of varying quality.

Andy, your formula is wrong - the width x depth in inches divided by 144 gives the cross-sectional area of the top in square feet. So to calculate the volume in cubic feet, you need to multiply 2 x 28 / 144 = 0.389 square feet by the length of the worktop in feet, not inches. Hence your estimate...

Thanks Andy, that's a great idea. I'm a bit worried about the leverage of a long bit in combination with an extension collet, but I guess it will probably do a better job than a 3/8" sleeve.

I liked the look of these cutters myself, should cut nice and deep when necessary (and also the long flutes will be ideal for jointing thicker material on the router table) : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300402937007?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_1054 The also sell a...

Thanks for the advice everyone. I think I'll try a collet sleeve and see how I get on, unless my searchign luck changes and I find a proper 3/8" collet.

Thanks for your reply, sounds like it might not be such a great idea after all then. My reasons for wanting to try this are several: 1. I'd like a spiral fluted bit for cutting deep mortices 2. Spiral fluted router bits are rip-off expensive compared to end mills 3. Router cutters, including...

I am planning to buy a 3/8" carbide end mill for cutting deep mortice joints with my router, a Triton TRA001. The Triton only has 1/2" and 1/4" collets, and I can't find a dedicated 3/8" collet. As the cutter is long and will be working hard, I don't think using a Trend sleeve is a very sensible...

HSS cutters will blunt quickly, although they can be sharpened to a keener edge they lose it quickly - nearly all decent router cutters are carbide and this is what I'd suggest you cut with. Regarding feeds and speeds, depends what size and type of cutters you're using. Looking at the specs of...

Having looked around the Record, I think it's a bit over-priced for what it is (I think it's now retailing at £800, but there's a £100 discount at the moment) and you can do better for the money. It only has a 2 knife cutter block, so the finish won't be as smooth as you can get with other...

Thanks for your reply dibs. I think I'm going to try contacting some local firms to quote me for something similar, as I'm planning to build a router table extension around my table saw with two positions for the router so that I can use the sliding beam as a basis for a cross-cut carriage. I...

Is the problem with the hole accuracy due to your setup or the high forces you need to get through the walnut? If you can get the Forstner bit to go through easier material and leave a good finish, then just drill a hole through a piece of plywood or MDF and then clamp this onto the walnut and...

I'd love to build one of these one day; I have so much other stuff to do first - like building a router table around my table saw, and building a work bench. I've also hankered after the Woodgears' slot morticer, but I had a brainwave last night. Functionally the Pantorouter can do everything...

Do you have a means of levelling the sliding mechanism independently of the attachment between the "new" cast iron table and the sliding mechanism beneath? In which case a few (4-6) counter-sunk machine screws around M8 size driven into appropriate points into the sliding carriage underneath...

I've used Wealden's bits and I've also been very happy with the quality, for what you get I think they're very reasonably priced. The one thing I would like is to find some straight cutters with a 10 degree iah shear angle on them (not to the extent of a spiral flute) which Wealden don't seem to...

Blast, I would have loved a steel one of these also. Are you likely to have a further run of these in the future dibs? I'm particularly interested in these as my plans are to have an all-steel surface to my table for magswitch/magsquare compatibility, and quite a bit of searching has only turned...

Does the 2280mm width include the cross-cut fence, or just the squaring table? It's important to bear in mind that the fence sticks out further than the table, and telescopes out further still if you want to have a large length of stock/sheet to the left side of the blade - from memory it was...

I recently bought a 12" silverline square new for £10 - seems pretty square to me (it conforms with a squareness standard but I forget which, one of the less accurate ones - but still plenty square enough for my purposes). In my humble opinion (and I know I'm going to get shot here by people who...

I had a good look around the MJ12-1600 in the Axminster showroom when I was researching to buy my own saw. It seemed well put together and would be up to the task of cutting panels easily, but it's a BIG saw - with the squaring frame and outrigger on one side, and the extension tables to the...