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I have the TRA001, which is a nice machine but like most 2000W+ routers a bit big and bulky for handheld work, best in the table. The JOF001 looks like a nice little hand-held unit, much more versatile, although for that purpose I have a Draper Expert dual base router already. Ray Girling, who...

I bought the equivalent kit to the Axminster one from Rutlands a while ago, which is currently on sale: http://www.rutlands.co.uk/workshop-&-po ... --54-piece - a little over half the price (with less bits but still plenty I would think?) - you get 30 bolts plus fixings in the kit for little...

The best way to tell as a hobbyist I think is to make some cuts in a few different scraps of wood when you fit a new blade, including some stuff that's prone to tear-out (cross-cut some ply for example). Put them to one side and every once in a while compare your cut quality to the reference...

The TRA001 just has more power. For most jobs you'll probably find 1400W more than enough. Once bits get above 2" in diameter though you will need to slow them down in order to limit the tip speed to safe levels - this is mainly an issue with large panel raising cutters. The combination of...

I have a big Triton (TRA001) and a Draper Expert dual base (model 45368). The Triton is fantastic in a router table, but I found it too heavy for hand held use, so I bought the Draper, which with its two bases is very versatile and a much more manageable weight. Others have also been impressed...

I have the 250mm Freud LP40M cross-cut blade (60 tooth, 30mm arbour) and the kerf is 2.8mm. Roger, the cut being wider than the kerf could be due to run-out (i.e. the blade isn't running true - as an extreme example think of a Dado wobble blade), or misalignment of the blade with the mitre...

I've recently bought a Draper Expert dual base router (45368) as I have the big Triton which is just too heavy for a lot of hand held work. Very pleased with it so far and it's very good value - lightweight, 1350W variable speed, 1/2" and 1/4" collets with both the plunge and fixed base. Don't...

I use a mixture of Solidworks which I was taught during my undergraduate degree (2003!) and Sketchup. Sketchup is alright for basic things, but it's horribly limited in others - like when dealing with curved surfaces. Personally I think Solidworks is a dream to use, of the proper packages it's...

Whereabouts are you finding the JPT-260 for that price Chems? If it were that price I'd consider one myself when I buy (the next machine on my list is a P/T) but at £1150 from Axminster it's too expensive for a 10" P/T I think, if I go new I'm looking at the Axminster AW106-PT2 or the Scheppach...

I'm somewhat dubious about that review's claim that the sole has been precision lapped to within the tolerance stated! It works out at 0.1 angstroms, or a tenth the width of an atom.

Variable speed - large router bits like horizontal panel raisers, for which you need the slower speeds, are meant for table use only.

I don't think anyone is suggesting this as one's only protection against dust, but in combination with an extraction system (which is rarely going to capture every last speck, even to Mr Pentz's ultra high capacity way of thinking) and respiration protection, increasing the air changes/hour...

For fitting under a bench, you're probably looking at multi-motor vacuum extractors. I have the DX4000 too and I rate it highly, it's not quiet but then power tools aren't either and I don't find I need ear protection unless I'm using my noisiest tools like routers. Would be a bit quieter under...

Thanks for the advice Roy, I'll stick some laminate on the underside of the table. Do you think it would be necessary to seal all the sides also, and if so how would you do it? Would a painted finish or similar seal it in, or is it necessary to mess about with fiddly strips of laminate?

I'd say the next step up is to look at a saw with a 10" blade, such as the Charnwood W650, Record TS200C or Axminster AW10BSB2. All of which you're pretty much looking at doubling your budget, unless you look second hand

Thanks for the heads up on that, I hadn't anticipated that to be a problem if I used a contact adhesive to a 36mm double layer MDF base (MDF usually being pretty flat?). How would you recommend I get around the issue then - a thicker steel base, or some other method of supporting and...

I had a look on my saw today, the insert around the blade measures about 430mm x 60mm and is 5mm thick. There is a 7mm gap between the blade and the sliding beam. I think that this could be increased up to about 17mm by repositioning the beam on its mounts, so I reckon you could make up a zero...

I have a Vitrex twin filter mask, cost about what you're looking to spend. I find it comfortable to wear and easy to breathe through, and it certainly keeps my lungs dust free. The only negative I would say with this type of mask is that moisture from your exhaled breath collects around the...

I've been mulling over how to accommodate a router into my table saw for a while now, and after a few design iterations I've come up with the following: The concept is a 3mm mild steel L-shaped extension wing, mounted onto 36mm of MDF. I haven't drawn in the MDF yet, or any additional...

I've got the Record and I like it (see my thread in Buying advice for more info if you're interested). I too looked at the Axminster MJ12-1600 but it's massive, not suited to being on a mobile base and very heavy, so in your situation I'd definitely discount it. The Charnwood is a decent saw I...