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Good for you! If only all saws were the same. On my Record, taking the knife off is equally fast - a single 16mm nut. It's very easy to drop the nut and washers into the dust collection guard of course, but aside from that it's easy. Putting it back on is a bit of a faff without dropping the...

This is precisely the sort of thing I meant when I said that some people are in denial about reality. The fact is that lots of people use their table saws for non-severing cuts. I am not defending the plethora of bad practice promoted by some amateurs online, but there are lots of examples where...

First and foremost, glad to see that Steve has not suffered more serious injury than he did. Top marks for sharing his experience also. I had a recent unfortunate incident with my TS that I have not had the courage to come on here and discuss, mainly because of the self-righteous nature of the...

You could make the object in your post then copy and reflect it - would work well for objects symmetrical about their centre.

I would agree with Steve's advice on resawing, and if you want to resaw 228mm a table saw that can handle that is a very industrial bit of kit. You could get by with an 8" saw such as the Axi TS200 for the rest of the operations, but my recommendation would be for a 10" saw. They seem more...

I would ask how you are planning to join the pieces together. Any joinery other than butt joints or screws is going to take a lot longer than dimensioning your pieces. A good table saw can be adapted to cut box joints very well which is a popular joinery technique with beehives. Check out...

I'm building up to making a pair of glazed doors for my garage. Material will be cedar, each door will be about 1.1m wide and 2.2m tall. The joints for such a door around the glazing at the top looked rather more complicated than anything I have attempted before, so I thought I'd give myself a...

This is good advice, particularly if using 1/4" shank cutters. I find it quicker to make a series of full depth plunge cuts with the router, as the fence/jig is already set up for the job, and then clean the mortice out with a side to side motion. Plunging to remove the majority of the wood...

Dehumidifiers are available using two different techniques for drying. Condensation driers draw air over a chilled coil, which lowers the temperature of the air and hence the dew point. When the air is below the saturation temperature for the absolute humidity, water condenses on the coil. The...

I didn't go down the route of carcasses with my build (https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/finished-built-in-wardrobes-t84820.html), I instead affixed a frame to the walls, floor and ceiling for the track to run on. The alternative would be to fix the carcasses in place, fix the door frame and...

I only buy whole sheets but I use Timbmets in Stonehouse, I think they offer a cutting service.

I like my Triton TRA001 too but it's a big beast and in my opinion suited best to a permanent home in a router table. For a mixture of hand held and table work I would suggest the slightly smaller MOF001, has plenty of power still for regular sized bits and being a fair bit lighter it's a much...

Looking really good, I find it very uplifting when the end is in sight! I'm just about to embark on a kitchen from scratch myself. Your review of the experience is very honest and adds some realism to expectations of what the experience will be like for me, so thank you. Ultimately whilst these...

If you're still in the market for a bit extender, I like the Axminster one as it uses standard ER20 engineering collets. This means you can mount any bit with a shank of up to 13mm, and because each collet has a 1mm range you get a solid grip even with an under-sized shank.

I use end mills for routing a lot - the spiral flutes give a much smoother cutting action and also clear chips a lot better than straight bits. They are also a lot cheaper than spiral router bits. I use a collet extender from Axminster with ER20 collets, these are available in any size up to...

This guy has posted a video review of the jig showing it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VK4JYV2YZbA Having looked at the video myself, I'm convinced that it would do a good job. However, my view is that it would work best on a tablesaw with the capability to use wider blades. Router...

I have the Incra LS positioner for my router table and love it. Personally where I think the I Box jig comes into its own is if you have a saw capable of having wide (i.e. dado) blades. The width of the joint fingers is determined by the cutter (Incra's material suggest you can use "any cutter...

We have a Stoves 1100E (not the 1100ei) which has a mix of induction and halogen rings. We use the halogen on light weight frying pans, woks and steel hot plates. Both the induction and halogen are very quick, I would probably reason it's because a lightweight aluminium pan has much less mass to...

Having experimented with wet-formed briquettes, I just fill paper bags and cereal boxes with sawdust and shavings and load them on the stove, it's by far the quickest way unless you are spending a large sum on an industrial sized pressing machine. A chap on Matthias Wandel's site made one...

See here for a description of fitting electric heaters to metal machines: tis-the-season-of-rust-and-mellow-fruitfulness-t55942.html I'm in the process of doing this at the moment.