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Having researched some more I've ordered 5 litres each of Junckers Prelak and Strong silkmatt (satin). Hopefully SWMBO will be satisfied with the test pieces!

Thanks Mike, the subtle satin sheen is definitely more what we're aiming for. Just finished huffing 27 packs of new oak block flooring into the house. I'm hoping being new it will be much easier to lay than the reclaimed horror stories I've heard, but even so looks like an awful lot of floor...

Thanks all for the recommendations - quite a few products to have a sift through! Seems like a wide variety of products all do a good job. Mike.S - thanks for the offer, SWMBO wants a satin/matt finish rather than gloss though. I'd be interested to see what the finished result looks like though...

I will shortly have a wooden block floor which will need a finish. This is for a lounge which sees a lot of foot traffic as it leads through to the garden, so I'd like something hard-wearing that will last a few years between maintenance. The product I originally had in mind is Sadolin PV67...

Glad to be of assistance :-) We've all been daft before! Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Second-hand planers that fit your bill are the DeWalt DW1150/1151 (I think this became the Elektra-Beckum HC260) and Scheppach HMS260. I have the latter which I picked up on this forum for approx. half the price of a new machine. If you are not in a rush, I would recommend you go down this...

Sorry, missed your post. The beam needs to be aligned to the blade rather than the top - I check this with a dial gauge fixed to the beam. I suggest you want maybe 0.05mm movement away from the blade as you push the beam forward by about 100-150mm. If the problem persists, could be that the...

This may be of help to you: http://www.raygirling.com/dismtra1.htm The collet lock feature is actually a very simple mechanism - as you wind down towards full depth, a feature in the base engages a steel pin into the collet. If you look at the 6th picture down on the linked page, you can see...

Part P regulations changed last year, now something called a "Third Party Certification Scheme" is in operation. Before you start work, you need to locate a suitably qualified and registered electrician, explain to them what you want to do and ask them to provide this service. Alternatively, you...

Thanks for all the responses. Robin, I'll take a look at some house extension insurance policies and see if any fit the bill, good tip thanks. We already have the steels (two beams to be bolted together as you suggest), to be set on padstones either end. It's a 19th century cottage with solid...

Yes doing the work ourselves. That's a great idea about getting a builder to employ me, unfortunately I don't know any! My concern is mostly that not having the benefit of being mortage free, in the very unlikely event that a big mishap occurs (I wouldn't be taking the work on myself if I...

I would think that the pipe needs to be rising from exiting the stove, but not necessarily straight up - any reason why it can't go through the wall at an angle? On the primary loop of a stove you need a constant rise to avoid thermal traps between the stove and the heat sink radiator. The stove...

We're about to take a structural wall out of our house. There was a two storey extension built to the rear of the house in the 1990's, and as opposed to taking the old wall out in the extended lounge on the ground floor the builders simply removed the patio window that was there at the time, so...

I'm not quite sure what you mean by an armature extension. Is the supply coming from the house consumer unit? If so, what is the size of the circuit breaker? If it's an old building you may be on rewirable fuses which are normally either 7.5A, 15A or 30A. Newer installations have MCBs with...

You can either use a fly lead or just take the blue plug off and re-wire the lead with a 13A plug. Whether it will blow fuses or not depends on the motor size - up to 1.5kW (2hp) should be fine, 2.2kW (3hp) you will probably pop the odd fuse on start-up and anything bigger will probably not run...

The hazard here is most certainly kick back - if you have one of those rubbish RK mounted crown guards where the RK sits proud of the saw blade, such that you have to remove or reposition the RK as well as removing the guard to perform such a cut (the alternative with a RK mounting being to have...

If you are going to make a number of boxes/hives, I would look at a jig with a mechanical control. One of Matthias Wandel's readers built an earlier version of his screw advance box joint jig for the very purpose of making hives - see http://woodgears.ca/box_joint/bob.html. You can use a jig...

Re dado blades, I think the legal requirements are for the blade to stop within 10 seconds and for the blade to be guarded. So if you have a saw with a big enough brake, and have/make suitable guarding arrangements, then you're HSE compliant. Most saws don't have brakes strong enough to stop a...

Peter Sefton sells the Incra track which is top quality and cheaper than Rutlands: http://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/epages/eshop814530.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/eshop814530/Categories/Routing/Track

Keith, The cladding is tongue and groove, which by design copes well with movement of the boards as they change in size. When fitting the cladding, I first spaced them evenly by putting small spacers in between the boards where the shoulder of the tongue butts up against the edge of the...