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I have a colour Lexmark laser. The toner is expensive, but the printer itself was buttons. No complaints, it does 20 ppm, has a built in duplexer (very very useful) and is on the WiFi so you can print from laptops and phones easily. Software is pretty unobtrusive too. The drum lasts something...

Agreed, also if you want to put a hole in the middle of a board you don't need to measure at all, just set a marking gauge or similar so it reaches the same spot from both sides, easy middle.

Splines are probably the easiest to fabricate, very straight forward to just slot them into a saw kerf.

If you had a 21 or 18 mm board though it would be easy in metric. 21mm is a pretty common size for planed timber. You can always find a number that is easy or awkward in either system if you pick it to be such.

Sawn oak would be about £20 sq.m in 15mm thickness, though you'd have to account for wastage from planing it. Still you could probably do solid slats for about the cost of the veneer by the look of things.

I just use normal pva wood glue for mdf (currently everbuild 502), and to give strong joints.

I'm not a fan of the naff plastic handles. I have a set of Narex chisels and they are nice to use and seem to hold an edge. You can get a set for a similar price as those Irwin chisels: Narex Chisels - 8105 Bevel Edged Chisels Boxed Set

I would seriously consider water based just for ease of cleanup and lack of toxicity when spraying (though you'll still need a mask for dust of course).

I use an old Stanley #4 plane with a convex blade profile as a scrub plane, seems to work. Very much faster than trying to use plane with a normal flat blade profile.

Illingworth Ingham are fairly pricey for hardwoods IME - it was they who came in at near twice the price of Hymor for me, and they didn't have stock, which might be why they were pricey). I was buying some Utile, so playing to an importer like Hymor's strengths I guess. I've not tried...

Rorton, where in Manchester sells black walnut? Most of the yards here seem to be aimed at the building trade, so softwood and cheap hardwoods abound.

I bought there (pre-covid) and they were really helpful. I was able to jump up on the forklift and pick my boards. Sadly that will not be the case any more it seems. :( Prices were fine for me - no silly buggers, they were about half the price of a yard closer to home.

I agree, we have fitted wardrobes and just fitted the outer face directly to the wall. Damp isn't really an issue in the house (except the uncapped chimney).

Is it a solid exterior wall? My house is late 30s and has cavity walls, they were fairly common at the time.

I wear a pair of cheap manual handling gloves for handling rough sawn stuff, but otherwise nothing. Are you wanting gloves for protection or warmth?

They have major advantages in areas where earthquakes are expected. Also they have much smaller thermal mass which can be a benefit or a curse depending on your perspective.

Engineered wood floors as they call them are very common, no issues with it lasting as far as I'm aware. The "veneer" is usually 2-6mm thick, rather than being a thin furniture veneer.

Depends if it's solid. Wouldn't surprise me if it's a veneer on plywood.

I use a plastic faced hammer for chiselling. Has a bit more heft than a mallet.

Another picture frame, much better this time, the joinery is cleaner. I decided to try doing an inlay. Quite pleased with this one. Mostly hand tools used apart from saws for dimensioning. Thicker splines, I'm not liking them so much.