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Also brad point drills are easier to start accurately.

At least it would be straight cut on your finger though. :wink:

You can get non-slip additives for paints / epoxies. You could try adding one to floor paint. Probably a bit finer than standard sand you'd buy.

How much off are you? I've not found any issues with using a ruler in general, though I do find a laser measure handy for longer distances. Are you marking with a knife or similar thin edge?

Yes, B&D badged. Got it second hand for a tenner so can't complain really.

Epoxy will stick iron plate. Get one designed for metal, they're often a bit stronger. 2500 psi from a good bond is achievable, that would be more than strong enough assuming your plate is half a square inch or more.

I'm not sure what job a jigsaw is actually the right tool for. They always seem like a second option to something better.

I have a cheap sheet metal B&D. It's rubbish, far too wobbly so you spend a lot of effort keeping it still.

For that sort of thing I find a couple of swipes with a hand plane and then a quick sand to round it is quick enough.

I have a cheap Scheppach (which is probably the same machine). It's not super sturdy but I can get repeatable straight cuts with it. I have swapped the blade for a tuffsaws one and then just set everything up straight. Seems fine, even on 80mm birch. Does it give the straightest cut possible...

Leyland white / magnolia trade is cheap and covers well, I'd go for that.

If possible, you're better off adjusting the table to be square to the blade cut angle (i.e. the drift direction) rather than adjusting the fence. That way the mitre guide will be straight as well. Table should be attached by 4-6 bolts underneath - you can slacken these and adjust the...

There aren't any good ways to do it non-destructively. Moisture meters are designed for unpainted wood and work well in that context, they're not worth using for brick or cement. The main issue is salt content in the bricks (absorbed from ground and rain water) which throw off the correlation of...

I saw them the other day, they looked reasonable from a cursory glance, not cheap, but not outrageous either.

I live in a large city so we'd be gone in the initial blast thus saving a slow death from fallout. That's a kind of prep right?

A lot of fillers can be planed which should be less likely to drive it into the wood than sanding.

Why hardwood out of interest?

Some internet sources have prices - they are often on the high side, so maybe take those and knock a little off. Really depends on what you're buying though. Common joinery softwoods should be cheap (look at DIY shed prices and reduce a little). Larger orders of rough sawn hardwoods are often...

Mine is 2x3s laid edge on and laminated. Definitely not worth paying a lot for something you'll probably ding up in short order, and being solid timber they are easy to plane flat. I have a fairly deep apron at the front - I just use sash cramps to clamp things down on the front edge.

What's wrong with the supply pipe being buried? How else are they going to run it?