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I did notice that. :wink:

I agree with Mike, I'd be wanting a welded steel frame in the z shape and then effectively clad it in wood to get the strength there.

Why? I meant an internally sprung hinge (looks like a normal hinge but springs shut) not a separate door closer. Just for a door it'll be 3 inches or so.

That's all fine, but it's a moot point if all your software runs on Windows. I just run windows defender, no viruses in years. It's not really that hard to avoid them.

You can certainly get them for fire doors, but they may be a little oversized for a towel holder.

We left the carpets down while the room was being skimmed and they're fine. As long as you get some dust sheets down it shouldn't be an issue. The plasterers skimmed to the skirtings (which were left on) so no need to remove them either. All I removed was the radiator and door. In my case the...

Good point on the shelf spacing - I put up a set for larger books and files recently, they are 320 mm apart (top edge to bottom edge) which seems about right for A4 sized stuff.

It was seasoned olive delivered by a man (the MIL gets it in builders bags) so I didn't have much choice. I managed to split a fair amount by carefully selecting the less gnarled pieces. It was already pre-split to some extent as it was delivered as firewood.

It is. We have soft water here and tea is nice and clear.

You're not wrong on olive. I broke a brand new axe splitting some at the MILs place in Spain. We did get refunded after a lot of arguing at least.

I stripped paper from one room when we moved in a year ago. The plaster was shot so I ended up getting it skimmed. If it's in good nick I'd go with normal bare plaster routine - mist coat (I actually used screwfix bare plaster paint) then a couple of top coats. It's fine a year later. I...

On the whole subject of lipping ply, can you just bash a bit of filler on the edge, sand smooth and then paint? Or does that not give a good finish?

It's both. A deal is a piece of wood over 2 1/4" thick and less than 10" wide. But also, it was the common name for softwood, presumably because it was traded in deals, a typical amount was apparently 120 deals, called a hundred of deals, obviously. :P White deal is spruce, what we'd now...

Olde worlde term for common construction softwood. So pine and spruce. These days they call it redwood and whitewood.

I'd have said utile from those pictures.

The actual text is: Do not release the tension on the saw blade when work is complete. The blades and the main saw frame do not respond kindly to constant changes in stress and tension. Only release the tension to change the blade or if the blade is to be removed because the machine is to be...

The manual for my Axminster bandsaw recommends that you DON'T detension the blade unless you're mothballing the machine for some time. Says frequent detensioning increases wear on the tension mechanism.

What do you call reasonable? You can get some cheap Chinese diamond plates for a few pounds each if you're after cheap and effective.

I use them to light the woodburner mostly. Or if I have too many I just burn them off in the garden. The council won't take them as green waste.

I'd echo the Milliput viewpoint - it's the texture of plasticine which can be awkward if you need it to flow. It's also a dark grey rather than a true black. I have some of this: https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/res ... gment.html It mixed with clear epoxy to give a hard glossy jet black...