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That's a matter of hours... not 24 of them then? (well someone had to say it, might as well be me!)

An Amish boy and his father were in a mall. They were amazed by almost everything they saw, but especially by two shiny, silver walls that could move apart and then slide back together again. The boy asked, "What is this Father?" The father (never having seen an elevator) responded...

What an interesting and enjoyable thread! I like to think I'm selective about what I watch on TV (don't we all?) so these are the programmes I made sure I set the recorder for if I'm out: Prison Break Lost (how did Channel 4 let Sky steal it away)? Desperate Housewives 24 (should be top of my...

Hi Nigel Generally speaking, the top coat used over a sanding sealer (a laquer or polish usually) will be harder wearing than the sanding sealer and give better protection. You can leave it at the sealer stage without any real problems, especially in the case you're describing, although on...

Hi again Andy It is possible that the oil hasn't had time to cure fully, so time may well mend this. I'll look forward to the answer to the question, could you also find out please how long it takes for the white marks to appear and whether any water splashes are sitting on the surface as...

Hi Andy What do they do to remove the water marks, assuming they clean up okay?

On a different note, it was great to see so many of you come along to the show, I even managed to stay out of the pictures! Hope to see some more of you at Yandles!

I'd like to add my support to Martin's comments. These shows are not cheap for us to attend; of course we view things as whether or not they are profitable, which includes long-term results - we wouldn't be in business long otherwise. I doubt that many of the standholders make a large profit...

You've taken out a second mortgage then?

Hi Si Shellac Sanding Sealer is not available in spray cans, it'd probably clog the nozzle in no time at all. I appreciate your comments about getting it into the nooks and crannies but with a spray there's a danger that you could get a build up in corners etc. Apply it with a brush, you'll...

As stated, pine usually darkens as time goes by, so this is something to bear in mind. For a bed a sanding sealer (I'd suggest Shellac Sanding Sealer as it is quick drying but easier to apply over a larger area, although most others would be suitable) would be a good start; after sanding it...

Interesting thread, this is one of the reasons most of our products are quick-drying or, put another way, have a short 'dust-free' time. One thing I would ask you to bear in mind Andy is that if you're using a finish that has a flammable solvent in it, are you forcing the vapour from it past a...

Hi John Thanks for your answer, I wasn't at the show although as you know we had a stand there manned by Mark our Sales Manager.

Hi All Well, postings about this one seem a little sparse! I don't want to start the whole 'shows' debate again but would be interested just to hear some feedback from people who actually went to the show (rather than their reasons for staying away!) on what they thought of it. Thanks

That's not an easy question to answer, probably around three coats but you'd have to judge it yourself as you go. As you intend to wire wool and wax afterwards this shouldn't be such an issue. However, now knowing the project you are working on, I'd go for the Sanding Sealer option as it'll be...

No offence taken, I wasn't really trying to promote one product over the other, just offering advice on their properties. We're in the fortunate position of selling both types of product which generally means we can advise on what we think will be the best product rather than promoting the one...

Acrylic Sanding Sealer is pretty tough and hard wearing, but Cellulose will give you a slightly harder wearing finish. Whilst this would be harder than Finishing Oil, it depends on what you are making as Finishing Oil gives a lot of protection without being a tough coating; it is more flexible...

Our Finishing Oil (or equivalent) would be suitable for this project as it is very water resistant and should damage occur at some point in the future it is also easy to repair. Three or four coats, sanding between coats, should be sufficient and can be built to a gloss is desired or left as a...

Hi All This all went a bit off-topic but that doesn't matter, I just wanted to publicly thank Dave R for his help, this has all come to a very satisfactory conclusion, hopefully for all concerned Thanks to everyone else who offered to help, all much appreciated.

Hi all Can I just ask a couple of questions before trying to answer any? How water resistant do you want your finish to be? Can you tell us what it is you are making and roughly what size it is? What do you call a 'good finish'? Do you mean bright and glossy, something more subtle than that...