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You are doing a really good job - I am following your progress with great interest.

I start with an oversize rectangular block of wood. I trace the shape of the tang on the sides and use these lines to guide the drilling of two holes of the correct width in "V" formation. I make and fit an oversize leather washer to the tang. Then I chisel out the remainder of the waste...

I have it now, thanks.

I don't seem to have received an e-mail with details of my recipient.

I'm going on Sunday.

Thanks CC - that seems a likely explanation. It is well made and there is no sign of any welding. I suppose some shrink fitting was involved.

This vice appears to be shop-made rather than a commercial item. I can find no markings on it. It is evidently made of stock steel sizes. The jaws are 6” x 4” x ½”. The screw is 1” OD x 3 TPI. The guide rods and handle are ½” OD. Has anyone seen one like it?

I would like to take part - I have sent an e-mail.

Thanks Sheffield Tony and Musicman. I'm planning to go to the London International Woodworking Festival on 26th or 27th October. londoniwf.co.uk Some interesting demonstrators including Richard Arnold. I'll bring the Finkum plane and maybe some others with me.

Thanks Andy - I was trying to find a pleasing shape of wedge that would fit in with the rest of the plane. Here is the completed article - I soaked it in linseed oil, allowed it to dry and applied some wax. I put it to the test on an unknown white hardwood, boxwood and walnut and it worked well.

Wedge now added:

I fitted the sole today. The next jobs will be to adjust the mouth and make the wedge.

Thanks for all your comments. I have done the basic shaping of the body in boxwood and I have made the rivets, crosspin and iron. Making the sole of bronze will be next.

This is my latest ancient plane reproduction project. I have made replicas of several other ancient planes and I find it interesting to build them and find out how they perform. I think we can learn more about ancient woodworking practices by using these copies than by looking at the originals...

I have just discovered this thread. A great restoration and lots of interesting information. I saw this machine on a visit to condeesteso a few years ago and was very impressed with it.

My Super 7 lathe has back gear, tumbler reverse and motor reverse. I just prefer the "feel" that hand cranking allows when cutting fine threads. It was not very laborious.

Yes, they resisted unscrewing.

Robert Wearing wrote articles an plane making in The Woodworker magazine in 1961. I think this subject may have been covered in one or more of his books but I am not certain of this. The 1961 articles covered making a jack plane, smoothing plane and scraper plane. They are of "sandwich"...

This is an Eclipse No.50 P.S. - I don't know how it differs from a No.50 but maybe it is quite similar. I slacken all the thumb screws and clamp the blade in place. Then I push the end of the sliding part of the frame hard with my thumb to tension the blade and tighten the thumb screw to hold...

I have some 316SS tubing, about 9.5mm outside diameter and 7.5mm inside diameter. You are welcome to have a piece FOC if that might be any good.