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Jim, Belated thanks for your comment. :oops: I have been on my travels and I got distracted with refurbishing some second hand tools I found. However, this weekend I got back to plane making. Here are the latest pictures.

ChriR, Wiley and Vann, Thanks for your replies. I had intended to make new handles for the plane but I changed my mind because the originals looked sound after removal of the varnish. I think they are beech but I am not entirely convinced - the photo below shows them on an offcut of beech...

I believe that Bakelite is quite hard and produces crumbs if you try to cut off a sliver. This Stanley No.4 dates from 1980 and came with plastic handles which I disliked so I made wooden replacements, finished with linseed oil. I think they look and feel better than the originals.

Wiley, Thank you for your reply and the links. My plane looks black but the photos look bluish. By answering the questions in the link it would be a Type 19 (1948-1961) except that the adjustment knob is steel rather than brass. I suppose that the English versions have their own types. All...

Bought from a second hand shop for £20 this morning: - Chisel, 9/32” width, I. Sorby, Sheffield (an unusual size? – I didn’t have one this width), - Spoon gouge, 1/4” width No. 28, Henry Taylor, Acorn Brand, Sheffield, split in handle, - Inside callipers, 4”, Moore & Wright, - Die stock with ½”...

Here is the completed adjuster and the front infill. The adjuster has a peg that fits into a hole through the bolt that holds the back iron to the blade - this was easier to make than a "banjo". I haven't tried this arrangement before but if I'm not satisfied with it I'll replace it with a...

Here is the back iron fitted to the blade. Togs, When I have reduced the infill so that it fits in the steelwork I propose to drill into it through the holes in the sides and hopefully the holes will meet in the middle. Then I'll remove the infill and enlarge the holes using special drill bits...

Hei Henning, My Euro 260 has the original angle fitted. I took the following dimensions: - Overall length: 475 mm - Width of broad side: 40 mm - Width of narrow side:15 mm - Thickness of broad side: 2 mm - Thickness of narrow side: 6 mm - Distance from left side to T-slot: 150 mm - Distance...

Richard, There are a lot of clips on acme threads in youtube - if you search on: acme thread cutting.

I think the plane looks great - I like the bold styling and the spiky bits. I'm following the acme thread discussion with keen interest. I've never tried cutting one - I hope you get the problem sorted out.

Thanks, Tosh. Here are some WIP pics of the rear infill, as requested. as you can see, it is made of three pieces glued together. I shaped the handle using paring chisel, chip carving knives, small rasps, a Dremel tool with small sanding drum and abrasive paper. After gluing the three pieces I...

Apple is hard and close grained. It is good for tool handles and mallets and I believe it was traditionally used for making the teeth of wooden gears in windmills and watermills. It does move quite a bit when drying out.

Richard, The thread is 1/4" ME, 32 TPI.

Jim and Richard, Thanks for your kind comments. Richard, Padauk is supposed to be very stable but this is my first experience of it. I bought it a few weeks ago - it was sold as a turning blank and was well covered with wax at both ends. It is rather tricky to plane as there are bands of...

Surforms work well on soft building blocks. Also the little red plastic type with curved blade is good for easing sticking doors.

Here is the rear infill, made from Padauk. It is deliberately a bit too wide - I'll leave it for a while to see if it shrinks before reducing it to fit the steelwork.

Andy, Thanks for taking the trouble to find out and let us know. If someone out there has made a plane from one of these castings please tell us about your experience.

This weekend as a change from filing metal I decided to make the knobs and some of the adjuster parts for the plane. I also planned to start some of the woodwork but I found a broken plastic part of my bandsaw when preparing to fit a new blade. I have repaired with araldite and will let it set...

Richard, Thanks yet again - that is a very useful thread about lever cap making. Now I just need to find someone to supply me with a suitable lump of brass. I haven't searched very hard yet and I have plenty of other details to work on before I need it. Andy, Thanks for the information. If...

Togs, I got the metal from Macc Models Engineers Supplies Ltd - you can see their prices on the website: https://maccmodels.co.uk/ They don’t have brass in wide pieces ½” thick and I am still looking for a source of metal to make my lever cap. I did start to look into the possibility of doing...