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Thanks Phil but no need for humility, based on the beautiful tools I received from Santa :) By the way, I hope your leg is improved.

Thanks Pete, I've been meaning to buy some new dreadnought files. The only one I have is very blunt. My largest effective file is a 14" coarse one with "ordinary" teeth : a big b@st@rd :)

Toby, Jimi & Mr_P: thanks for your comments. I urge you all to give it a try using some scrap metal. The sole is 1/4" thick and the sides are 3/16" thick. I have tried various punches but I mostly use a short, round nosed one (that can be seen on the left in one of the photos above), driven...

I haven't been able to do anything to this plane for a few weeks owing to working away from home. However, this weekend I managed to do some serious metal bashing (literally). I riveted the step in place and then attached the sides. It was very satisfying to see the dovetails emerge from...

The end is in sight now, Jim. Well done indeed - I have been following this thread with great interest. I tried Jim Kingshott's way of attaching the lever cap and didn't get it to work quite right because I couldn't find or make a spring that would compress far enough and provide sufficient...

Yes Toby, the blade of the middle one is quite far gone. However, I have an idea for making toothing blades and I may use it to experiment on. I'm sorry to say I haven't re-handled the chisels yet as I've been working away from home for a while lately.

Yes, an interesting challenge. Early Autumn seems good - I want to try and finish my infill mitre plane first.

Three woodies recently given to me: - The big one is 17” long and has a 2 1/8” tapered blade by Lewis & Co. Sheffield. It has no visible writing on it. There is a bit of a split at the back left corner but looks sound otherwise. - The middle one has a 2 1/8” tapered blade stamped: Warranted...

Thanks Andy, I think I could manage that.

Tentatively yes - if it is within my capabilities. Do we know how the side plates were attached to the sole? Or were the sides and sole a one piece casting?

A1: I have used abrasive paper for this. Put the paper on a flat surface and rub the brush on it. A2: A soldering iron can be used. You will need to find a way of compressing the spring while you solder.

Good stuff, Jim. I feel inclined to try Acme threads now :) Turning brass by hand is fairly easy. An HSS wood turning scraper works well. I use a speed of about 700 rpm. It is necessary to experiment with toolrest height and angle of presentation until the chatter-free "sweet spot" is...

I took a couple of European tours in the early 1980s. One took me to Greece, visiting Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Swizerland, Lichtenstein, Austria and Yugoslavia (as it was then) on the way there, and Italy, Monaco and France on the way back. The other tour was in Scandinavia: I got the...

Best of luck - I hope it goes well :)

Yes the Nobex can be used to cut mitres but not for clamping or nailing them. The versatile Marvel can apparently be used for all three operations. I still don't fancy using it with my Nonpareil (which of course is by Tyzack not S&J - thanks for pointing this out by PM). I don't have the...

Thanks Andy, Maybe I'll try it with a cheap hardpoint saw. Using it with a hammer hadn't occurred to me - you can't do that with a Nobex :)

A new discovery. Has anybody tried one of these or does anybody know how old it might be? I hesitate to test it with my S&J Nonpareil :)

Please can you post some photos of the offending tools? That would make it easier to propose a solution or say whether they were deliberately made bent, as some carving tools are.

Correction: I meant a square thread tap and die.

It looks very good, Jim. Before you go further in shaping the cap it might be worth putting a thread on a piece of 3/8" rod and trying it for fit. I remember that RichardT found the Acme fit too sloppy for his liking so he went to great trouble and expense to obtain a thread tap and die.