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Here we have the sole attached. The next jobs will be to make the sole flush with the plane and the rivets flush with the sole.

Thanks for the data Jimi, What is the blade angle?

Please can anyone say what these pliers are for? My guess is some sort of electrical crimping operation.

Thanks Jim, Strangely, RDG didn't offer a 3/8" x 10 TPI tap and Tracy didn't offer a die in that size, hence the two suppliers chosen. Yes, I'll certainly try cutting threads in some scrap first :)

Time for an update on this job, which was on hold for several weeks because I was working away from home: - I obtained an Acme die from RDG Tools (thanks for the tip, Jimi) and a corresponding tap from Tracy Tools but I haven't tried them yet. - I made a rear infill from padauk but I wasn't...

Really interesting comments from all contributors. I think walnut would look very good. BTW, one change I made from the drawing was to reduce the size of the rearmost hole in the side plates to 5/16" so as to leave the wood thicker there. Well, it'll be interesting to find out. I think the...

. Corneel, For dimensions, please see my earlier post of 27th July in this thread. I think it is going to weigh at least as much as a Bailey No.5 or even a 5 1/2. Jimi, The vice stack-up gets the workpiece to a convenient height for me to work on where I can see it without glasses and not...

Thanks Jimi & Andy, Jimi - My setback with the mitre plane was I made the rear infill but did a bad job of fitting it so I have had to make a new one. Not a great tragedy but very annoying. Andy - to shape the yew I marked the profile on sides, top and end. Then I drilled two 1" holes to...

Well, I've made a start, using some rather rough yew, which I rather like in spite of its imperfections. My left elbow now aches from filing those side plates :) BTW, I've made some progress with my infill mitre plane and also had a setback. A report to follow on that thread soon.

Well done Jimi. I've enjoyed following this and I think it is a great encouragement and resource for other plane makers, as well as being a fine tribute to Richard T. Please can you give us a summary of the plane's dimensions, blade angle, weight, materials, etc.? Quite possibly all this...

Best of luck, Toby. Please let us know how you get on.

I have a Moxon made by Douglas too and can confirm its excellence :D

Jimi, If you decide to use the counterbore, please try it on some scrap metal first :)

Jimi, It is called a counterbore or spot facer. Try Tracy Tools for supply.

Here is a preliminary drawing. I based this on: the dimensions provided by AndyT, on scaling from the photos and on my own judgement. The only dimension that doesn’t “fit” is the width of the blade. This is stated to be 38mm (= 1 ½”) whereas I have drawn it as 1 ¾”, which seems more suitable...

I think the cap iron looks fine as it is and suits the overall style of the plane.

Thanks Douglas, I'll give some thought to alternative wood possibilities. Ebony is very pricey though .... I have made a lot of the other metal parts, as can be seen in the photo below. The mouth adjustment mechanism works quite well. I'm thinking of putting an ACME thread on the lever cap...

How do you want to transmit the turning effort between shaft and pulley? Does the pulley have a screw that could be tightened through a hole in the wall of the adaptor and engage in the keyway of the shaft?

I am near Croydon and may be able to help. I'll send a PM this evening. How long does the adaptor need to be?

Pete, No, I haven't tried acid but I'll give it a go. What sort of acid and what concentration do you use? Also, how long does it take?