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Thanks for the info. on the glue and frogs. I'll look forward to seeing the smoothing version. 40 shillings = £2. I don't know how much would be today's equivalent. You could make an "rxh" style scraper plane with the remains of the Record No.4 :) If you would like to give it a go I can...

Excellent job - a real pleasure to see. Would you mind telling what glue you used and how the frog is attached? The Marples transitionals seem to have appeared about 1960 and at that time they were also offering traditional style wooden planes and Bailey style planes. Below are some extracts...

You are welcome to have these nuts if you think they might fit. The thread seems to be about 1/8" x 20 TPI. One nut has a bit of bolt snapped off in it but I think I can free it. The slots can be cleaned up with a small file.

Your knurling looks good as far as I can see in the photo but if you are not satisfied you could turn off the the knurling and re-knurl, at the expense of ending up with a slightly smaller knob. I like to apply plenty of thickish motor oil when knurling, although some say that brass should be...

Very nice work on that lever cap. I hope the "wood cooking" works out OK - I've never tried anything like that.

I think that the two wheel style of knurling tool is best because it does not put a high load on the bearings of the lathe.

This special puller I have is for a gear wheel of about 39 to 40 mm overall diameter and up to 20 mm thick. The diameter of the locking barrel is 47.6 mm so sadly it looks like it would clash with the hole in your case.

What are the diameters of the hole in the tool body and the gearwheel (to the tips of the teeth)? Also, how far is it from the face of the gearwheel to the outer face of the hole?

It's coming on very well - I'm really looking forward to the next installment.

The mouth looks good - well done =D> Very easy to go to far with the mill, so that's an important milestone safely behind you :)

Mr_P has kindly drawn my attention to this thread and I'll be following it with keen interest. I expect you have discovered the various threads on infill making in the Hand Tools section. I have made several metal bodied planes and I'd be glad to try and answer any questions that you may have...

My Tyzacks date from the 1980s and have stamps on the brass backs and writing on the blades.

The pulleys should line up, as Skippy has said. I think you need to slacken the set screw on the motor pulley (Items 81 & 79 respectively on the parts list & assembly diagram), raise the motor pulley until you get a good line-up, then re-tighten),

I think you have a bargain there. I have a Sealey GDM120A 16B, which is almost the same but has 16 speeds. I bought it in 1991 for £190 and it has given me good service. If you would like a copy of the instruction manual please send me a PM.

Thanks Andy, I enjoyed watching that. It's good to see that the knowledge and skills to do this still exist.

Thanks for showing us your methods, Katellwood. That's a very ingenious way to make a big tap - and time saving too, I would imagine. I think I need to learn how to weld :) I haven't tried your way of making external threads but I have done something very similar to make barley twists using...

Here is an approximate translation of the text under the video clip: If your desired chisel becomes unable to cut for creating a mortice when using hammers you cannot call it an acceptable blade. By using a jig in order to set the angle, a good sharpness can be achieved. When recalling the...

I spotted this threaded stem on a bar stool in a hotel in France recently and wondered if it had previously been used for something else. I was interested to note that the thread is left handed - the French like to do things their own way - vive la difference? :)

Mine has the bevel ground on the inside of the curve. I use it for cleaning up the bottoms of blind mortices.

Thanks Andy, that's a good idea - I'll give it a try. Thanks Xy - you are correct. I have discovered the difficulty in tapping end grain too, so my stool design avoids this. However, I have had success in tapping M10 threads in end grain ash using an ordinary metalworking tap. I did this to...