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Andy, Have a word with Richard Arnold, who I understand is exhibiting so he will know the routine.

I plan to go on the Saturday. I went to the last one and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Thanks Graham. Here are photos of rivetting on the sole and filing the edges flush with the body.

Cutting and filing the mouth. I didn't break the piercing saw blade, which is a record for me. Final filing to be done after rivetting the body to the sole.

I cut the body a trifle over length and set to work to fit it to the sole. Then I applied whiteboard marker pen to the ends of the sole and offered up the body. Where the ink appeared showed me where to remove wood. This is rather like the "smoking" technique but a bit cleaner.

I found some old coach bolts to make the rivets from. I turned off the "square bits" under the heads, filed off the writing from the heads, cut to a little over length (by ~ 1/8") and cleaned them up a bit. Despite my best efforts the plane sole had developed a bit of a bow during the end...

Well, my mind is on metal this morning :) . While the wooden body was settling for a while I thought long and hard about how to put the bends in 1/4" thick bright mild steel with the limited facilities I have available. Cold bending would not do for such tight 90 degree turns. In the end I...

Custard, that is a very kind offer but the plane is already under construction - I am only just getting round to posting details of it and I'm sorry I did not make that clear. However, I would be very glad to have a block of apple for future plane projects. It is good wood for plane making but...

Thanks Andy. Yes the patina may be rather a challenge :) As usual, I began by making a drawing based on the available dimensions and photos of the original.

Some readers may remember posts about my reproductions of the Silchester and Sarre ancient planes. I thought it was time to make another one: the Roman plane found at Goodmanham, Yorkshire in 2000 at the site of a Roman-British village dating from 1st to 5th centuries AD. The following link...

I use "jacking screws" to stop the sides leaning in during construction and I fit spacer tubes in the infills. The use of spacer tubes is described in Jim Kingshott's book: Making & Modifying Woodworking Tools.

Yes, you have done a good job there. I was pleased to find this one and restore it. No. 4 1/2s seem much rarer than No. 4s.

Belated thanks to all. I got round to making a new iron of 3/16" thick O1 steel to replace the unsatisfactory 1/8" thick soft one. I also opened up the "pocket" in the side to try and reduce the tendency to clogging. It works much better now, particularly on the shoulders and cheeks of big...

Thanks Andy. I had a look through my incomplete collection of 1950s and 1960s issues of The Woodworker and found various Eclipse ads but they were all plugging the all-metal style of hacksaw, like this example from May 1962:

I'm glad to see you are back in action. I think it will turn out very well.

Thanks for all your replies. Erik - I think it came with a tile cutting blade. t8Hants - 'Sorry, there are no owner's initials on it. ED 65 - here are the best shots of the lettering that I have been able to take:

I like this style of hacksaw and I was pleased to pick this one up cheaply last Saturday. I cleaned it up and was interested to discover the following writing: “Eclipse No. 60B, made in Sheffield England. To tension – take up the slack then apply three full turns only. Eclipse blades will...

Thanks Peter. I also use them for my bow saw:

Thanks rafezetter. Yes, I staggered the teeth to try and get a smooth cut.

Tony, what I did was as follows: - using a sharp centre punch I struck a small "dimple" on one of the pieces of bandsaw at each point where a hole was to be drilled, - I made up the "sandwich" of blade pieces with the punch-marked piece on top and clamped it together using a small G-cramp at...