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Yes, it is. She was so, accepting of the end. Diagnosis to end in two weeks, no symptoms, no warning. Perhaps a wake up call to us all. And it was made in time for her to see it as well, which she dearly wanted.

Thanks, It had to be if I’m putting my name to it. Should last 20 years with regular maintenance.

On this build it was 35mm on 150mm featheredge so all the boards lined up with the adjoining building 30-40mm is fine. A bit OCD, but I didn’t think non matching board levels would be ‘right’. I also had to make the roof pitch match as well, just for aesthetics.

And yes, it’s exactly what it looks like. Asked to make this by a friend two weeks ago, who is no longer with us. Quite an honour to be asked.

I’ve just built this shed for the local bowls club to replace their 20 year old one that wasn’t for for purpose. 2.8m x 2.8m. It’s based on 4x2 floor, 22mm T&G P5 flooring. 3x2 stud walls, membrane on the frame, counter battened, then feather edge to match existing buildings. Internally lined...

That worked! That was so easy compared to Blender. thanks for the heads up.

Will have a look later today, it went in, must come out is my view.

Hello all, I have an stl file and it 3D prints flawlessly, however, the six pocket holes around the lid need to be 10mm outside diameter, not 9.1mm as per the original stl file. Internal diameter of pocket is fine. I’ve loaded it into Blender, change to edit mode, turn on wireframe view, but it...

But, they were issued in 1982 and 1984, when there were 1/2p coins. Why did they issue a 3d stamp when there are no 3d coins any more? Because there were at the time of issue.

Strongest, yes, but I’d put the OSB on the inside. Membrane the frame, batten and clad. Insulation inside, vapour barrier, OSB inside. OSB is all but a vapo barrier anyway due to its high glue content.

Go for it, I have a Jet DC1100 which didn’t fit my space as it was. I rotated the motor unit 90 degrees, wall mounted it, then mounted the bad and filter to an adjacent wall. Connected up with 6” pipe to rejoin everything together and it works fine and has been for two years. this is how it...

I do have explosives licence for my black powder firearms, but thought it would probably blow it to splinters. Now, do I make another barrel just to try it at the range? Nah, not worth losing the licence for. 😗

Your budget would only get you a pre-owned one, if your lucky enough to be the first to see an advert, they get snapped up pretty quick. To make one as a first project isn’t even worth considering. Starting cost for a new one is just sub £2000 with laser And Vcarve home. I run a 1000 X 1000...

To make one would be difficult, to make many you are definitely in the realms of a CNC router. Jigs wouldn’t allow for bushes of any sort on a small badge to use a router. If doing by hand a scroll saw is probably far more controllable than a router.

A little play on the lathe, a 1/12 scale model of an 18th century British 24lb naval canon. Found original full size blueprints online and scaled them down. All oak inc barrel, with metalwork handmade from various bits lying around the workshop. Just got the rope to make to finish off the...

Didn’t know there were different sizes, mine are C650 with 4x2 rail supports, 1300lb capacity a piece. Well abused and still straight and stable.

And another tool on the list, the list of tools I didn’t know about, so was happy in my ignorance, but now on the ‘ought to get one and see what the fuss is about’ list. Oh well… 😉😉

Another upvote for the tough built trestles. I couldn’t have worked so efficiently with my workshop build without them. Strong enough to be stable with 200kg of timber on them kept off the ground ready for working. they also take up very little storage space hung on a wall.

His pressure was too high. I have sprayed several rooms‘ walls and all my ceilings, which were over plastered on the Artex. The ceiling mist coat was the worst messy, but a dust sheet caught everything. For the main coats, paint poured into the hopper straight from the retail bucket, no...

I would mount the router to the right of the saw blade. Material is fed on the left hand side of the cutter, so if you put the router on the left you are restricting the width available for support of wider boards.