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I'm surprised how many kitchens installed by so called 'professionals' have not considered worktop jointing locations or have items recessed into the worktop leaving very little material with no support underneath. @tsb If you can't relocate the joint then you can get some very small worktop...

Can't you do the joint 90 degrees away? That way the joint is not next to the hob.

I've used "Amerimax Aluminum Roll Valley Flashing" for birdhouse roofs, lasts for ever. You can layer it to cover large areas plus it's really easy to cut and bend round corners. Only issue is that I haven't found a uk supplier but you can buy on eBay for £18 a roll delivered just have to wait a...

Hard Wood Paper

Yes, I've seen a Myford ml2 and my Simat is obviously a cheapo miniature copy. I'd love to upgrade it but it always just does what I need, although very slowly....

Thanks for the info. Having now seen some pictures of the the older Burnerd chucks with the lever arm/tommy bar? tightening they look to be a much better size and weight for my tiny lathe so I'll keep on managing with what I have whilst trying to find a used one. I'm also going to try using the...

I have been looking used but I'm unsure about buying something like this from pictures especially as I will need to turn a backplate before I can even try it and often there's no returns or spares if it turns out to be well worn.

It's worse than that as its a half morse 0 taper, i.e. its the thin half of a standard length morse 0!! No one makes this now.

The process I try to follow is, draw a line from a jaw onto the piece so I can put it back in the same place, undo 2 adjacent jaws, remove item, put the item back aligning to the mark and then re-tighten the 2 jaws I loosened. However this can still result in a movement of 0.1mm or more.

Doh, failed at the first step, will do....

Sorry, my post was obviously not very clear....the Warco has 3 threaded holes for me to mount the home made backplate the RDG has through holes to mount the backplate. I guess you could use bolts and nuts on the RDG.

Neither chuck comes with a backplate so I need to make one. The back plate on the RDG uses bolts through the chuck to mount onto backplate, you could use nuts or cut threaded holes in the backplate, whereas the Warco has a threaded body so the bolts go through the backplate and the fix into the...

I have a Simat 101 lathe which is "just" about good enough to do the small amount of metal turning I do with a 4 jaw independent chuck which has a fair bit of play. If I ever take something out of the chuck its impossible to get it back on the same centre line and I end up having to faff around...

I would say no, you now have an oiled product on your wood, things don't stick to oil. Chestnut products have a useful finishing sheet which may help you, Finishing Oil is their name for Danish Oil...

I would run as much as possible in the 150mm and then transition to the 100mm in as smooth a way as you can manage right at the outlet, i.e. don't have a brick wall transition. My reasoning is that 150mm has a lower air resistance that 100mm so you're better having much in this size as possible...

I'm sure you're aware of the details of old lathes on lathes.co.uk but just in case. Chipmaster & Harrison 10-AA lathe It seems that early lathes didn't have hardened beds unless specified, later models were all hardened....definitely worth looking out for.

Sounds very different to mine. I have a pleated round filter on each motor which has a rubber gasket which is a snug fit on the motor inlet, a double thickness vacuum bag then fits over the top of the pleated filter and is turned over the gasket so it becomes a very tight fit on the motor...

I've always used the 3tpi sabrecut blades from tuffsaws, slightly more waste due to the extra set but they work really well, both on seasoned and green wood.

Great **** star name. "The King of Wood":ROFLMAO:

I agree with @Sideways, depends so much on the local driver. We've been lucky and ours have been great so far.