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Yes the silicone was something I was trying to avoid as this needs painting over. Also looking to use the tube of Timbaglaze to sort some frame gaps. Does it set solid or give a little? Cheers Andy

How we getting on with the Timbaglaze ? Looking to use some to bed on some Accoya bottom beads then SS pin in. Really looking for the best product as the original Sapele beads have failed where bedded with caulking? and not helped by the fitters leaving the duct tape around the face of the...

I've learned today that training moles could be an earner :wink: 7 day hire for a moler is £160 plus sorting a compressor :shock: It seems I may have misinterpreted or been misinformed as, if the ground units here https://gateauto.uk/product/beninca-du- ... round-kit/ are used between the...

Some very useful bits of information thanks. Had to make a change and increase opening to 4m as the approach is angled which would have left one leaf in the way at 90° to the post when open. Not exactly what I envisaged but looks like a bigger gap than desired is going to be left between gate...

Unless it's changed, your next debacle is obtaining the refund :roll: The Hinckley branch could do me a favour and disappear :wink: Andy

3.5m between posts with double gates that open outwards. Anyone got any experience of what works best please? Cheers Andy

Brilliant stuff, used to get from Screwfix. Don't stock it anymore :evil: Anyone got a source or alternative please? Cheers Andy

Well done that lad 8) (hammer) Edit to say for making the hammer whole again, not nabbing it off Bm101 :lol:

I suppose it should be established first if this saw blade rotates in the right direction when crossed or not? Cheers Andy

We may be creating/continuing confusion here with the thread title being carried over from the original as this is not a 210b :wink: Perhaps the title could be edited as well to say Lurem SC25 ? I have looked for the Lurem documents online I previously used but they have disappeared :cry...

You could turn the base of the drill to the rear and fix to bench with enough overhang to the front of the bench to take your supporting structure. Cheers Andy

Even most of the best equipped workshops have sliding tables on the saw. I would get it set up and and be using it :wink: How do you square and dimension your sheet materials without it? Are you missing the long fence? Andy

Doesn't everyone? :wink:

Hi, are you sure about the product code/terminology as my search shows a router not planer? For the router body if you asked about for a burnt out one you might just find one to use for the parts. I'll keep my eyes open for you :wink: Cheers Andy

Very nice, as always =D> Just one thing to distract me (and quite likely not your decision) is the downlighter positioning ? Cheers Andy

Yes fig8 page 8. As you say scant on sizes :evil: Some basic calcs will give a rough depth though.... Cheers Andy

There is a manual on here or web and it shows the original set up. It has different positions for when doing angled work. Cheers Andy

This is one with the larger outlet socket. £50 Pickup only as very heavy. M69/A5 junction.

Hi Tim, in softwood at least I have had very good results without the need to pre bore the mortice. I have failed to upload video of me working on a bit of rough softwood. Hopefully this link works If you scroll to the right another snippet is their from a different angle...

Is there a theoretical reference to show this danger? Because saying it shouldn't be done doesn't tell you why not to do it. There is much said about a cutter "biting" and coming back on you. What's it biting on if you're going forward in the correct manner. High speeds and large circumference...