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  1. LBCarpentry

    Workshop machinery setup help needed

    If your using the planer in a professional way (to earn money) then swap out the block for a Tersa block. Plane and simple (hoho). I used to pain for hours when setting new planer blades - literally hours. All those wasted cups of coffee drank in anger. The shame. I bit the bullet and went tersa...
  2. LBCarpentry

    Rubbish Joinery

    On the occasions I have to purchase off the shelf external doors (XL joinery etc) I usually get offered "doweled or M&T?". I always go for the M&T on the basis that the joints will be far stronger. The latest door I purchased had to have a stile removed and adjusted in some way a bugger me, I...
  3. LBCarpentry

    Alternative Cill threshold for Doors

    The frame itself is made with a 30mm Oak Cill so no issue regarding floor. The door will sit perfectly square within the frame. I think I'll give it a go!
  4. LBCarpentry

    Fitting Rebate Block On Spindle Moulder Spacer Question

    Took me a long time to get there but I now see what you mean. The spacer is not specifically supposed to be at the base of the shaft. if it's loose feel free to remove it and place it onto of the cutter block. Any big blocks ideally want to sit on the shaft with no spacers underneath. The higher...
  5. LBCarpentry

    Alternative Cill threshold for Doors

    Currently making an internally opening front door and am thinking of an alternative to using the typical storm guard or rubber thresholds that are designed to act as draught seal to the underside of the door. The door frame itself has a low profile Oak cill and is internally opening. I am...
  6. LBCarpentry

    Sliding sash's online?

    Does anyone know of a reputable website or company that will make just the casements for a sliding sash window, to my specific sizes? I don't even need them to be glazed as I can happily do that myself. Just after the bare casement frames at a reasonable price. Cheers LB
  7. LBCarpentry

    Bifold door track question?

    Tommafold 60 sliding door kit
  8. LBCarpentry

    Sliding sash windows

    Have just started using accoya for external joinery - If you use the finger jointed Accoya it comes already PAR with a square edge. Just chuck it straight into the thicknesser! The time saving of not having to face and edge justifies the extra cost of the accoya imo. I haven't even adjusted my...
  9. LBCarpentry

    Accoya wood

    Impressed with what I have seen so far. Best thing about it is that it already comes faced and edged with a square edge! Already saving time. Think I’m a convert on that basis alone!
  10. LBCarpentry

    1500mm wide wardrobe

    18mm way too thin. I’d start at 25mm and consider 35mm!!
  11. LBCarpentry

    Few More photos Of Repaired Cills.

    Does that cill have a bevel??
  12. LBCarpentry

    Oak Flooring Joint

    Ah I see, They previously glued the T & G's which is why they are stuck in there. Bloody idiots. No wonder its had to be ripped up
  13. LBCarpentry

    Making a Narrow Door (WARNING: Bodge Job)

    Thats so crazy that.........it might just work!
  14. LBCarpentry

    Oak Flooring Joint

    Take all the boards that have the tongue broken off and rip them and re-machine. the ones that are good - keep them. Then lay the floor randomly with 2 (or even 3) different widths of flooring. honestly It looks great especially with Oak. Sit back and enjoy your creativity and the ease of...
  15. LBCarpentry

    How tight should they be? Joints that is!

    We are blessed with many choices of advanced glue these days for different situations. I often use more than one type of glue on a project or even the same joint.
  16. LBCarpentry

    How tight should they be? Joints that is!

    I actually think that if you have to use a "firm" hand to fit your joints together then they are too tight and any movement within the joint can result in twisting / over strain. Your right, the difference between tight and loose is a fraction of a millimetre. I know (or believe!) I have a...
  17. LBCarpentry

    Accoya wood

    I too have just finished a similar sized batch. That red sapele dust gets absolutely everywhere and I have pretty good extraction system. I find douglas fir has no where near the same amount of fine dust. But I can't use DF anymore it has become unbearable to work with over the last couple of...
  18. LBCarpentry

    Accoya wood

    I have a question (and I love to dig up and old thread to do it) How does it machine up? I'm thinking more dust wise. Sapele kicks out an incredible amount of fine red dust. Its an absolute killer if you have a batch of 5+ windows.
  19. LBCarpentry

    Best method for gluing/assembly of long mitres.

    The tape method is by far the best. I have glued perfect mitres up to 2 meters long using the tape method. Just make sure that saw cut is perfectly flat. Lay them on a flat surface so the outside edges are facing up and the two 'points' of the mitre are just touching. slap yer tape on, spin her...
  20. LBCarpentry

    Burning Accoya

    Well there are always the circa 400mm lengths that you can't really do much with. Still considering the big swap to start using accoya for the windows and doors I make. Sapele is currently a very good price, cheaper than dougy fir but it so damn dusty. Good quality hardwood for windows though...
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