Search results

Spyderco ceramic rods for my Japanese kitchen knives; dead easy to use and they produce a wicked edge - Rob

Spent a lot of time in the museum (fantastic btw) on our way to Dargaville to spend some time with Rick - Rob

Having just come back from a long tour of NZ, I had the privilege of watching Rick Taylor turn bowls from swamp or ancient Kauri, some of the timber being thousands of years old. He only uses TWO tools, a set of which are merrily on their way to me as well as a bowl in green and yellow ancient...

I did one of these some years ago as well, based on the drawing in his book. Nothing too tricky, but the interesting part was using a customised convex soled jack plane to make the dished seat. End view and the top Finished with a few coats of Osmo as I recollect - Rob

Yep, cut to the the line, but on the waste side, so that the line should just be visible. If say, cutting dovetails, how you cut the tails isn't crucial; you can afford to be a little bit sloppy. However, as the pins are marked out from the tails, it's absolutely critical that the pins are cut...

This is exactly the system I used to use; a twin motor Camvac, large water butt and a black 'separator' lid on top and yes, it does work quite well. If you disregard the stuff in the foreground of these two pics..... ...you can see the water butt, Camvac and separator lid. However, I wanted...

I'd go for the Japanese chisels from Workshop Heaven. They take a fabulous edge and can of course be used with a 'Birmingham tapometer'; provided you don't do anything daft with them like levering off old floor tiles (use you LN chisels for that :lol: ) they're pretty much indestructible - Rob

I'd tend to agree; the blade may not have been welded square n'true so even a slight variation out of kilter will cause the surge - Rob

Without getting into another utterly pointless 'discussion' Jacob :lol: I've used low angle Veritas planes now for over a decade and it's practically impossible to produce a cambered edge where the blade sits at a mere 12deg. I think most users of low angle planes grind them straight and square...

Yep, on a fairly straight forward job like this you could even do a full size 1:1 scale drawing which wouldn't take long - Rob

320ish pages, not too bad; paper seems a bit more flimsy than before. On page 66, the Japanese saw range has been re-branded as 'Shokunin' which Mike Huntley, late editor of F&C suggested when I had a natter with him a while ago. I mentioned it to d'managment at Ax who appear to have used it...

Apart from the desk and chair being pretty good, you've also done a very nice job on the drop in seat. I've done a few of those and it's not easy to get the whole thing symmetrical and the cover wrinkle free - Rob

Another interesting clip Mike, but it's not 'like' for 'like' as far as the dowel joints are concerned. The Dowelmax joint had four dowels (stated at the beginning) in each case, the guy building the school chairs only used two widely spaced dowels for his test piece. I would say that in the...

Agreed Jacob and that's not actually shown in the clips. We can assume that the dowel joints were made correctly but whether or not the m/t were made to the same standard is a moot point. Suffice to say that it's an interesting set of videos and convinced me that a properly made dowel joint...

All of the above points that Custard makes are absolutely spot on, but purely for interests sake, these clips are worth watching in sequence and are the original videos done by the inventor of the Dowelmax system. Having briefly spent five minutes trying to wade through 200 odd back issues of...

Agreed, as I said above That may so Jacob, but it doesn't alter the proven, systematic test done by F&C that a correctly made dowel joint, with properly fitting dowels is actually stronger than a m/t - Rob

I used to think so too, but it's a commonly held misconception. When the Dowelmax jig came to the UK, Derek Jones tested it for F&C and stated that it was the best dowel jig he'd ever come across. I subsequently bought one and it is a superb bit of kit. In a subsequent article, he was then...

Agreed, prime timber would be MUCH better and ultimately far easier to work with. However, I bought my CofL at a very 'economical' :lol: price from Paul Goulden which meant that it came with all sorts of assorted defects; hence the reason for this 'work around' jig. I've never been to Tyler's...

Thanks Andy, appreciated. The CofL I bought was reasonable but not outstanding as it had a lot of knots and small blemishes in it. It is a nightmare to glue these small bits together and this is the best way I came up with. The jig took about an hour to make this morning so not a huge investment...

One of the big problems I face when making a drawer bottom is gluing up narrow bits of Cedar of Lebanon and 'attempting' to keep them flat and level. I've had real problems with this in the past, so I developed this method of gluing up sections for a drawer bottom. The current job in the 'shop...