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Like all sawing, Eastern or Western, there's a definite way to use them. In this case you may be standing incorrectly, in other words feet and body facing the bench. If this is the case, try standing sideways, so for a right hander, the left foot should be closest to the bench and the right...

I use the handmade saws from WH as well and they are an absolute dream. The new 'Shokunin' range from Axminster are also pretty good; re-branded Gyokucho. I have a deep cross-cut Ax saw which is superb. Same here. We love Japan and have been several times now; it's by no means a 'perfect'...

Following on from the thread about 'Learning Dovetail Joint' on the General Woodwork forum, a question arose about Japanese saws as compared to their Western equivalents. I've used them exclusively for years to do finer stuff and I thing they're great, but I have a range of bigger Western saws...

Bearing in mind Nev's comment above, it might be worth starting a separate thread to discuss? - Rob

A walnut box - Rob

I've been using Japanese saws for donkey's years now and it's bonkers :lol: to suggest that you need to kneel on the floor to start a cut in the vice. If cutting say a dovetail pin, I generally start the cut on the opposite side of the wood and track down the line gradually lowering my right...

Rather than take a hammer to the teeth, a much better way is to reduce the set is to use a sharpening stone. Place one end of said stone against the spine resting the face against the 'sticky up' teeth. Give the teeth three or four strokes and repeat for the other side but don't take off too...

'Baked' would be closer. It appears to have been kilned to such an extent that the wood feels 'carroty' to such an extent that it's almost impossible to plane the stuff. Difficult to explain but if you ever come across a piece of oak with no 'life' in it, you'll see exactly what I mean. Some...

Nice box, well executed =D> From my limited experience of oak flooring timber, it's always kiln dried and has all the 'life' sucked out of it; as a consequence I found it really awful stuff to try and work with. If you have a chance to grab some properly kilned (a rarity these days) or even...

Lots of excellent advice here and yes, once you've started to really think about the project, you're a goodly way along the build. It won't be too difficult either if you stop and consider the pros and cons of each stage - Rob

The only thing I did was to order a gallon of TBIII from Ax on Sunday night, which arrived just before before 'lockdown' - Rob

Could be wrong but I seem to remember that the resin was used to distill true turpentine which is rarely seen these days. I've done a little bit of work in pitch pine but the resin makes it hard going with either hand or machine tools; not sure also how well it glues because of the resin? That...

Yep. I always plane a fresh face/edge on the p/t to go against the b/s fence and table as well. If you're sawing wide veneers use a new(ish) blade (3tpi) and check the set up on the saw before you start work. Also crank up the blade tension to max but release it at the end of the session. A...

A Krenov style 'Fossil Cabinet' in Brown Oak for my daughter. Owing to current restrictions on movement, the glazing for the door and sides as well as the six shelves with ground and polished edges will have to be left for another day. Joints on the stand are through m/t wedged with Bog...

I agree with you Mike and I'd love to build a pair, but I've got literally nowhere to put them. All I have is one little 'hop up' type of thingie mangled together from some oddments of 18mm ply - Rob

It is; PM me and I'll tell you why - Rob

Spot on. It's a bit a shock when a blade does break 'cos it makes a hell of a 'bang' but as Aidan has said, it all happens inside the machine and is perfectly safe. Simply wait until everything has come to a halt, open the door(s) extract the old blade and replace with a new one, giving the...

I think here you're really onto a hiding to nothing. Knots are hard even in newish pine and with stuff thats 150 years old, they're going to be like iron rivets! I'd skip a plane and go straight to a belt sander with a 60g belt! :lol: Seriously, this is a difficult task you've set yourself...

Agreed Steve. Last year Yandles had a 2metre x 75mm thick board of Indian Rosewood (a very poor board I might say) full of knots, splits and damage but I reckon with careful and considerate cutting, there's a few decent smallish projects in it, not to mention innumerable knobs, handles and...

Some excellent advice from all but I agree with Mike; you don't need a tablesaw and a good bandsaw will cover all your your essential sawing tasks. The other essential bit of kit is a planer/thicknesser which takes all the 'grunt' out of preparing material. A decent, heavy bench of some...