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You don't necessarily need to change the bucket, but to reinforce it instead. Get hold of some 12mm ply and cut out a hoop, or 'halo' such that it's a tight push fit about half way down the side of the bucket. Tap the hoop into position and your bucket ought not to collapse...I had the same...

It is a species of Birch: 'Himalayan Birch Betula utilis is a birch tree native to the Himalayas, growing at elevations up to 4,500 m. The specific epithet, utilis, refers to the many uses of the different parts of the tree. The white, paper-like bark of the tree was used in ancient times for...

Thanks Graham. It just irritates when I accumulate a quantity of decent enough timber but can't find a use for it. Fortunately, this project was on SWIMBO's 'busy list' so it seemed an ideal opportunity to make something with the oak and get a few brownie points thrown in as well...it all helps...

I agree, great job. I've just been looking at a Barnsleyesque blanket chest with a curved lid and raised, exposed dovetails. I may have a go at something similar after the next project has been dun n'dusted - Rob

Thanks John, I didn't know where he lived but it's useful to know all the same as the village at the time when we lived there wasn't very big. From looking through his books, I do recollect that his 'shop was pretty 'compact' but superbly kitted out. I only wish I'd known about it at the time...

If that's the bloke I think you mean, he was recently pointed out to me as someone who specialises in new and used Japanese tools. See here - Rob

I agree, it's lovely stuff but it seems to be rarely seen in the UK in board form like that. With some careful cutting and planning there's a nice little cabinet in that board - Rob

I've got all of JK's books and excellent they are too. When I bought my first flat in the early 80's, he was living in the same village (Deepcut) and probably no more than a couple of hundred yards from me. Unfortunately, I didn't know that at the time so I was never able to meet him. A lost...

I'm in Salisbury; not too far from Andover? - Rob

I just hold my blade against the edge of the bench with the bevel facing me, then go over the edge with a small diamond hone, finally finishing on the leather wheel of the Tormek. As you say Jacob, easy really when you work out how. Doesn't need to be super duper sharp either - Rob

I use a continental scrub with a 'horned' handle which is excellent, but I only use it for two purposes, traversing across the grain. The first is to remove the original, rough sawn, old surface on a board which is invariably dirty and ingrained with grit; it then becomes safe to put it across...

I could have found the definitive answer for you Custard.... ...at AXHQ yesterday! :D - Rob

Yep, I'd go with African Blackwood as well - Rob

They're yours! Please PM me with your home address for postage - Rob

A set of three in-cannel scribing gouges, 17, 12 & 10mm, fitted with London pattern handles in English Walnut. £35 which includes p&p - Rob

Yup, it's a long winded faff, but this is how it's done - Rob

I use a LN block with an A2 blade; primary grind at 25deg, secondary at 30 - Rob

Yup, marking knife for joints etc and a 4H for other stuff where it's not quite so crucial, plus a normal HB for rough marking out. I use a thin, black biro for marking out dovetails. I'so got a couple of 0.7mm Rotring clutch pencils from WH for sketching - Rob

I don't intend to get drawn into one of these prolonged, interminable 'discussions' on bevels, sharpening etc because it's all been said and done dozens of times, but so you know Jacob, the 'hollow(s)' on a Japanese chisel is called the 'ura' and it's there because the hard cutting steel is...

I bet that's the case Custard, but the boards I saw were only the smaller one's stored in his 'shop in Kent. I'm surprised he hasn't managed to get Charlie boy on board for this project 'cos he's normally up for this sort of thing :lol: - Rob