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If you have an Instagram account, search for 'Low Fat Roubo'. That will be Derek Jones who's the editor of F&C; easy peasy then to send him a message - Rob

A naked Stanley knife blade in my very 'umble opinion, is just about the most dangerous handtool in the 'shop. Some years ago I was merrily slicing up veneer using a standard 300mm rule and said knife, whereupon the blade overrode the rule... ...and sliced into my thumb, requiring hospital...

A Richard Kell MKIII honing guide, complete with the original 'book of words', a spare set of wheels and several rosewood wedges of various denominations: £30 inc p&p - Rob

Specifically designed to slice off thin commercial veneers from a substrate after gluing; complete with two packets of blades: £25 inc p&p - Rob

The old pattern SE-76 Tormek jig, still fine with blades of parallel thickness: £20 inc p&p - Rob

No longer sold but the method to use them can be seen here £13 to inc p&p - Rob

I believe Mike does use this method Sam and a few years ago I once (under his online guidance) attempted to build such a labyrinth but for some bizarre reason I couldn't get mine to work. C'est la guerre - Rob

I use the twin motor Numatic NVD 750; excellent - Rob

Agreed John, I mentioned that earlier, but I tend to leave a bit more than 4mm - Rob

Nice job on that frame. If I could suggest one slight improvement for your next pic, I'd leave a fraction more at the bottom part of the card mount; no more than 5 or 10mm. This gives the pic some visual 'weight' but for a first attempt at framing a pic, it's nicely done. If you have something...

Yep; the way I stop these things from slipping is to use some d/s tape to stick a bit of 240g sandpaper to the underside. Sorted :D - Rob

I use the transfer jig shown in Rob Ingham's book 'Cutting Edge Cabinetmaking' - Rob

I'd agree. It's very difficult to find the highly decorative, etched chisels in Japan and they don't use them, being made for export to the West. Plain, top quality chisels, sometimes with a variety of different timbers for the handles (mostly oak though) are what Japanese craftsmen use - Rob

Again, another fairly steep 'learning curve' to negotiate. I've been using Japanese saws now for well over a decade and have recently upped my game to the hand made ones from Workshop Heaven which are sublime (if that's a way to describe how a saw cuts) but the standard Gyokucho saws with...

The steel is incredibly hard (RC65) and traditionally hammer forged, but as you say, this makes the cutting edge steel very brittle, so the hard steel is forge welded to a softer iron backing which makes them more robust, but they are still a bit tricky to use..ie, they can't be used to lever...

The other alternative to old or Western style contemporary modern chisels is to examine some of the offerings from Japan. That said, they're completely different and are a bit of a 'learning curve' until you get used to them, but they will take and hold an exquisite edge - Rob

If you're handles are battered beyond repair and you've got access to a lathe, London Pattern handles are IMO very cool. These are some made in English Walnut... ...fitted to some gouges I sold recently - Rob

It might, but then again nearly 2m of shelving unsupported in the middle may sag a bit (or quite a lot?? :evil: ) depending on the wood chosen, the thickness and the total load it's got to support. Supporting it on three sides is going to help, but how much is a debatable question - Rob

1.8m is pretty long for a single unsupported shelf, even with lippings etc front and back. I would definitely use the Sagulator to work out any shelf sag, bearing in mind that the info provided at the bottom discusses all sorts of stuff about shelf lengths and loadings etc. Personally, a saggy...

The design looks good but I'd be interested to see what finish you eventually apply to the ash - Rob