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Certainly, no problem - Rob

Yours....sold - Rob

Having made and finished my new bookcase, I've had a sort out of some woodworking books that may be of interest. Many apologies to 'mickthetree', but I've pinched a bit from his post as I reckon it's a great way to sell them... 'Condition is generally good to excellent, but I have noted where...

0000grade wire wool is quite good for cutting back or denibbing a finish provided it's used lightly but it shouldn't be used on oak as any metal fibres that are shed may find their way into the grain and produce black specks. Safer to apply wax with a grey 1500g Webrax pad which will cut back...

This is a tip that Derek Jones, editor of F&C, posted on InstaG some while back. If you drill a slightly smaller hole and run a 6mm bolt through the it, the bolt will tap a thread in the wood; then use a round pencil and wind it in to the depth needed. Simple, but it works - Rob

Just to go off topic for a moment, I voluntarily put myself on a 3 month NHS healthy eating plan to lower cholesterol by diet rather than statins. The nurse took an armful of the red stuff :D this morning for a test and I get the results next week. Please mention to your friend that she...

Just a trifling 28 degrees C here today which must get you reaching for the thermal underwear Sunnybob :lol: :lol: I don't sleep really well either as I had an adverse reaction to statins that gave me insomnia which, thankfully, seems to be passing - Rob

I wouldn't have thought so as from my experience the heat doesn't appear to affect it, except to make it cure more quickly. I was applying the final brush coat (so reasonably thickish) to my bookcase this morning and it was bone dry when I got back to the workshop late in the afternoon. All it...

Same here, excellent bit of kit - Rob

Please read again with the utmost care exactly what I writ. It's here..."There's some really great, well figured quarter sawn Oak out there (but you've got to go and find it) which would make a stunning table of the type that you're after. Were it me though, I'd be looking.... " There are two...

Please read what I writ Mike...I did say 'were it me'. I'm quite aware of what the OP requested but was offering other possibilities for a design which he may not have considered - Rob

I'm inclined to agree with Mike on this one, having read and seen all the pics. There's some really great, well figured quarter sawn Oak out there (but you've got to go and find it) which would make a stunning table of the type that you're after. Were it me though, I'd be looking at something...

No problem Martin. If you want to see how good they are, get an edge on one and then belt it hard into oak across the grain twenty times; then examine the edge with a jewellers X10 loupe. If the steel is half way decent, you'll see no degradation (or very little) in the edge whilst some cheapy...

I did a comparative test a few years ago and seem to recollect that Footprint chisels were pretty good. If these are quite old, my guess is that they're Sheffield made rather than chisels of dubious quality from the Far East - Rob

I've always used a PVA glue for veneering and have had few problems. For me, the main thing is to use a glue that's waterproof as you can then wet the 'show' side when it's cured to remove any sticky veneer tape. I currently use Everbuild D4 for almost all my work and can buy a litre locally for...

Dunno about that one Steve...I use a big Numatic NVD750 that'll suck out your wisdom teeth if you get too close and thus far, hand sanding with the Abranet sander and abrasives hasn't caused any problems. It can be slightly difficult to push sometimes but that's about as far as it goes - Rob

Easy; this one. I've built loads over the decades and this one is the best by a couple of light years - Rob

Agreed; any of these cramps don't offer nearly enough pressure for a tight glue up, but a few are very handy in the 'shop when you need a cramp(s) that can only be used single handed - Rob

Whenever possible, I try not to but use a 'gulper' instead (but without the fancy hood arrangement) where all the detritus on the floor gets sucked up into the cyclone bin. When it's time to empty it I don the appropriate 'elf n'safety respirator and crack on - Rob

Thanks Sam; useful. No wonder I couldn't find it...I was looking in 'The Essential Woodworker' #-o - Rob